Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I'm trying to fit an adjustable front swaybar to my GTS-T and the supplied bushes are too big for the factory brackets. Whiteline don't show a universal bracket with the centre ridge so I assume I'm supposed to use the factory D brackets.

Problem is I've cranked them up as tight as possible, I may have even threaded the hole, and there is still a gap. The bush is compressed super tight and the swaybar can still swivel so I assume function won't be affected. Anyone see any problems with leaving it like this? The front nut is done up tight.

Pics (blurry but you get the idea)

DSCF3511.jpg

DSCF3513.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413592-fitting-whiteline-swaybar/
Share on other sites

Grind the Nolathane (or whatever material it is) as necessary until the D clamp is securely fastened as per OEM (small gap IIRC).

This will not affect the function of the sway bar. These chassis mounts are simply used to constrain the Anti Roll Bar vertically and longitudinally.

Edited by R32Abuser

On the GTR i dont recall having any problems doing up the D bracket on whileline adjustables. If the bolts aren't turning easily with the bracket that loose, then there's something wrong. I would take the bar off and run the bolts all the way into the holes to check they're free and easy all the way.

Thanks for the replies, I'll give it another go and if not grind the bush. The bolts run freely, I copper grease everything an run a tap / die over everything I remove to ensure they are good to go.

Alternatively a local guy can make me a D bracket. Pedders stuff seems pretty pricey over here in NZ.

Thanks, I looked into the KS6 but it doesn't have the ridge in the centre that the bushes have, and it presumes a flat mounting surface (which as the pics show it is not).

I had another crack today and ended up dremeling the bracket so got it all done up but this happened:

DSCF3519.jpg

see the crease in the corner, not good. Checked the other side and its the same so I pulled it off and figured out the problem.

The bracket is staggered, with one side higher than the other. The bush fills the bracket to the lower side of the bracket.

DSCF3521.jpg

The chassis mount point has a bump in the middle, above that point.

DSCF3522.jpg

So what I'm going to do is spin the bracket 180 and put the slotted end forwards which will put the bottom of the bush level with the "bump" on the chassis. Then I'll get a spacer to go between the bracket and chassis and make up the gap on the backside. Plus a longer bolt will be needed. This will mount it securely without deforming the bush. Hopefully.

If you're using a 28mm bar, I'm already thinking that Heavy Duty links are required too.

I used HD links on a Whiteline RSB and one of the D brackets broke - and that's a Whiteline one!

I replaced them with Pedders D brackets and haven't had a problem despite hairpin bends at E Blaxland and Hawkesbury Hts. $20.

It's a 24mm bar, product number seemed to indicate a 28mm but my mistake.. I'm sourcing some longer bolts and will make the spacer out of either some hollow steel or just use washers for now.

Part number BNF28Z

B = Bar

N = Nissan

F = Front

28 = the 28th Nissan bar that has been designed (that one happens to be one of my designs)

Z = Adjustable

The D bush looks like a GTR one, they are different to the GTST. There should be a part number moulded into the side of the bush. Take a note of it and give Whiteline a call, they can confirm if it s a GTR or GTST D bush

Cheers

Gary.

.

Thanks Sydneykid, you're exactly right on the part number. I read somewhere the 2 digit code was the diameter but obviously that info was wrong!

Bush is 5093-24, I'll give whiteline a call tomorrow and see whats going on. Failing that as above I'll shim the bracket but I was surprised it wasn't a direct fit given how long they have been making these!

Right so whiteline say there is no 24mm GTR bush and that the bushes I have are correct. They also say that they have seen this issue once before and that the car had GTR brackets instead of GTS ones possibly fitted after an accident or something. I have another GTS-T shell in storage so I'm going to raid that and see if it all works out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...