Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting Whiteline Swaybar

samos69
 Share

Recommended Posts

samos69 Enthusiast

samos69

Posted
Posted

Hi all, I'm trying to fit an adjustable front swaybar to my GTS-T and the supplied bushes are too big for the factory brackets. Whiteline don't show a universal bracket with the centre ridge so I assume I'm supposed to use the factory D brackets.

Problem is I've cranked them up as tight as possible, I may have even threaded the hole, and there is still a gap. The bush is compressed super tight and the swaybar can still swivel so I assume function won't be affected. Anyone see any problems with leaving it like this? The front nut is done up tight.

Pics (blurry but you get the idea)

DSCF3511.jpg

DSCF3513.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413592-fitting-whiteline-swaybar/
Share on other sites
R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted (edited)

Grind the Nolathane (or whatever material it is) as necessary until the D clamp is securely fastened as per OEM (small gap IIRC).

This will not affect the function of the sway bar. These chassis mounts are simply used to constrain the Anti Roll Bar vertically and longitudinally.

Edited by R32Abuser
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

On the GTR i dont recall having any problems doing up the D bracket on whileline adjustables. If the bolts aren't turning easily with the bracket that loose, then there's something wrong. I would take the bar off and run the bolts all the way into the holes to check they're free and easy all the way.

samos69 Enthusiast

samos69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies, I'll give it another go and if not grind the bush. The bolts run freely, I copper grease everything an run a tap / die over everything I remove to ensure they are good to go.

Alternatively a local guy can make me a D bracket. Pedders stuff seems pretty pricey over here in NZ.

samos69 Enthusiast

samos69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, I looked into the KS6 but it doesn't have the ridge in the centre that the bushes have, and it presumes a flat mounting surface (which as the pics show it is not).

I had another crack today and ended up dremeling the bracket so got it all done up but this happened:

DSCF3519.jpg

see the crease in the corner, not good. Checked the other side and its the same so I pulled it off and figured out the problem.

The bracket is staggered, with one side higher than the other. The bush fills the bracket to the lower side of the bracket.

DSCF3521.jpg

The chassis mount point has a bump in the middle, above that point.

DSCF3522.jpg

So what I'm going to do is spin the bracket 180 and put the slotted end forwards which will put the bottom of the bush level with the "bump" on the chassis. Then I'll get a spacer to go between the bracket and chassis and make up the gap on the backside. Plus a longer bolt will be needed. This will mount it securely without deforming the bush. Hopefully.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

If you're using a 28mm bar, I'm already thinking that Heavy Duty links are required too.

I used HD links on a Whiteline RSB and one of the D brackets broke - and that's a Whiteline one!

I replaced them with Pedders D brackets and haven't had a problem despite hairpin bends at E Blaxland and Hawkesbury Hts. $20.

samos69 Enthusiast

samos69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's a 24mm bar, product number seemed to indicate a 28mm but my mistake.. I'm sourcing some longer bolts and will make the spacer out of either some hollow steel or just use washers for now.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Part number BNF28Z

B = Bar

N = Nissan

F = Front

28 = the 28th Nissan bar that has been designed (that one happens to be one of my designs)

Z = Adjustable

The D bush looks like a GTR one, they are different to the GTST. There should be a part number moulded into the side of the bush. Take a note of it and give Whiteline a call, they can confirm if it s a GTR or GTST D bush

Cheers

Gary.

.

samos69 Enthusiast

samos69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Sydneykid, you're exactly right on the part number. I read somewhere the 2 digit code was the diameter but obviously that info was wrong!

Bush is 5093-24, I'll give whiteline a call tomorrow and see whats going on. Failing that as above I'll shim the bracket but I was surprised it wasn't a direct fit given how long they have been making these!

samos69 Enthusiast

samos69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Right so whiteline say there is no 24mm GTR bush and that the bushes I have are correct. They also say that they have seen this issue once before and that the car had GTR brackets instead of GTS ones possibly fitted after an accident or something. I have another GTS-T shell in storage so I'm going to raid that and see if it all works out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...