Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking To Borrow Wheels / Tyres To Take My R34 Gtr To Wsid


Recommended Posts

Hi,

As title states I am looking for someone who is willing to let me borrow their set of wheels (w/ grippy tyres) to take my R34 GTR for her first run down the strip :)

Slicks / Semi's will be prefered and with some luck and sticky tyres I get booted off after 1 run with a 10.xx (unlikely as its my first time attending with her but fingers crossed) :ninja: Either way being an AWD and incapable of frying them before the Christmas tree your tyres will not go through much abuse at all.

Happy to pick the wheels up and drop them off or even change them on at the track and take them back off when I leave if you decide to come past WSID and watch/participate.

In saying that I am ofcourse willing to compensate anyone nice enough to lend me the tyres with $$$ or beer/skotch/strippers/whatever - which ever they prefer :P

Customary picture of car attached below, PM if anyone has any offers :)

Cheers !!

IMG_5201.jpg

If you can't fry the tyres then doubt you'll get a 10. Also getting a good launch takes a bit more than you might think. Just take your street tyres and run them down to about 28psi.

A 300kw car with an ok launch will run high 11's to low 12's. With a fantastic launch, which takes longer than you might think to muster, 300kw will get you to low-mid 11's. Caveat emptor of course is that torque and area of the power curve is what really affects the variance in times at the same power levels.

Turn your boost controller down and make a few runs. If you are getting 60 ft times of 1.6 or better then you're ready to turn it up.

By fry i implied sitting it on the brakes which I obviously cant do :( she definately has a potential for a high 10 though with sticky tyres based on what I have seen and experienced in the past.

Would take my street tyres down but im running 275's front and back on 19 x 10.5" wheels which are absolutely hopeless for drags

Get some r33 Gtr wheels and decent rubber for future meets.

Ive can get my hands on a spare set of R33 GTR wheels with crap rubber on them however im going for a 10.x in street trim to get booted off and never go back hence cant justify spending >$1000 on wrapping them with good rubber if their only gona see 2 or so passes down the quater (1 on low boost, 1 on high).

Not intending on doing any track days with this car either so tyres/rims will be redundant after the runs down the quater

Don't be a girl, run it with the 19's on.

My wagon ran 12.3 with 19's, 245 rubber and less power.

I'm confident it will get 11s all day every day with stuff all effort even with the 19's.

I'm not after 11s though I'm after a 10. I can't see the point of putting the driveline through unnecessary shock by launching the tits off it with 10.5" 275/35/19 front and back when I know it won't get the desired time I'm after.

I think the best bet is to do what alot of us do and just run on your street tires and prove how fast your car is in a "street trim". Set a base time for the car then next time run it with semi and see how little or no difference the tires make. My GTsT with half your power ran a 14.2 and i was just happy to have a top speed run. If you can drive properly you can avoid unecessary drive train strain no matter what tires you run. Also if your car is street registered and not in super street class you must run a street legal radial tire so some semi/full slicks are not aloud.

I took my 34 out to for the first time a couple of months ago and run on 19's even kept 38psi in them.

285/35/19 Federal RPM's

It's all about going out for fun, my 34 is factory stock standard and the clutch wasn't up for it..

I think the best bet is to do what alot of us do and just run on your street tires and prove how fast your car is in a "street trim". Set a base time for the car then next time run it with semi and see how little or no difference the tires make. My GTsT with half your power ran a 14.2 and i was just happy to have a top speed run. If you can drive properly you can avoid unecessary drive train strain no matter what tires you run. Also if your car is street registered and not in super street class you must run a street legal radial tire so some semi/full slicks are not aloud.

Cheers for the advice mate, might just go and give her a blast and see which end of the 11's scale she comes home to with the rubbish tyres on atm. Definately investing in a set of Micky T's ET Street Radials on the bucket list for Christmas :)

I took my 34 out to for the first time a couple of months ago and run on 19's even kept 38psi in them.

285/35/19 Federal RPM's

It's all about going out for fun, my 34 is factory stock standard and the clutch wasn't up for it..

Believe it or not I had a standard clutch holding up ~340awkw at one point and went strong for a good 4-5 months until it finally went pop (quiet literally the pressue plate shattered). Got the Nismo C-spec twin atm and its on a totally different ball game but standard clutch for up to 270kw in my experience was bloody awesome !

Ps how did you go :) ?

I used to have an MX83 Cressida with a 1UZFE V8 conversion and I went out with SAU/V8 Owners day and I was running 15.5 all day long coming off the line at idle on stock tyres and it took me over 3 months of practice to run a 14.709 and I had 156Kw at the wheels, LSD, 245/45 x 16 Toyo TEO Plus road tyres @ 24psi and for this I had the car up onto 2300rpm to come off the line.

It aint so simple as I thought.

I never ran it again after that, just wanted to prove I could do something with it and I was pretty impressed with the look on the face of the HSV driver in the next lane that did a 14.9??

Sold the car on to someone that sorta stuffed it for mine.

Now my newest toy climbs mountains lol

Cheers, D

Believe it or not I had a standard clutch holding up ~340awkw at one point and went strong for a good 4-5 months until it finally went pop (quiet literally the pressue plate shattered). Got the Nismo C-spec twin atm and its on a totally different ball game but standard clutch for up to 270kw in my experience was bloody awesome !

Ps how did you go :) ?

1st run was 14.1 @ 104mph then clutch just got worse, come back next day for eliminations and went 13.7 @ 90mph.. poor clutch didn't cut it and I pretty much rolled over the line for that pass..

My Nismo Coppermix twin Comp clutch gets put in next week and I'll head back out and see how it goes before swapping out the twins for a new 6262 setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...