Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone actually make new shock absorbers or coilovers for 260rs series one?

Every search I have done comes up as discontinued or not suitable for super hicas models.

I know I can get bc's but is there any other options ?

Rhd Japan have a listing for twin super flex wagon for 260rs but again says not suitable for hicas models. Tried emailing them but no reply

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414332-260rs-arrggggghhhhh/
Share on other sites

Tein's site says they will custom make dampers for you so if Nengun or someone says they are discontniued its possible you can get them to order. I have Stagea specific springs in mine (with Nismo=Bilstein dampers).

R33 struts will fit front only, I think they work pretty well when you combine a heavy JDM spring with the extra weight of the stagea.

Rear GTR struts will be too short. I've tried it...

How much shorter? Could be good if ur after a really low stance

Just buy a set of hsd's or bc coilovers. Anything else will cost u a mint. Plus u can specify spring rates on hsd's so u can get it riding just right. I recommend 8kg front 7kg rear. Not to stiff but tightens the big whale up nicely.

How much shorter? Could be good if ur after a really low stance

Beyond drivable in the real world/bump stop love.

If you like the look of your front bar DO NOT DUMP the Autech (please) the overhang is a killer, it WILL scrape if you look at a speed hump straight on.

I'm running 34 gtr front struts with king springs lows (25mm drop on a GTR) and this is too low for practical driving.

you can specify spring rates on bc's aswell, i have 5kg/5kg, (thats the lowest they go)rides nice handles good, remember that 4 kg is something

like a 25 percent upgrade from stock already from memory (well it is on rs4's)

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Just to add a bit of usful info

I used as per Sydneykids recomendations on the bilsteins shock I bought from him, R33 GTR front springs and R32 GTR rear springs......I used Kings springs approx 4kg

yep 4kg is the go, i had them with my teins, but they f**ked out and BC's only went down to 5kg, so i got them, not much worse

in the ride, but yeh if you can 4kg are always the go for stageas..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...