Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , I've been using Ryco oil and fuel filters since forever but they are now being made in in Great Wall land and I think the quality and standards have suffered .

There was a thread started by Cubes about oil filters back in 2005 and rather than revive it I'd like to hear about others experiences , in recent times particularly , with oil and fuel filters .

In another thread I mentioned I got persistant fuel leaks using the made in China Z201 fuel filters but only at the inlet tube - which is a slightly smaller diameter than the outlet one .

These days I suspect the anti drain back valves are doing bugger all in Ryco Z145a oil filters as I get a slight momentary valve train like noise at cold start up that I'm sure didn't happen in the past .

Unless anyone knows of anything better I suppose I'll try genuine Nissan oil and fuel filters for my R33 , it would be good to find them made in Japan but thats a lot to hope for nowdays .

Thoughts ? Cheers A .

Time to change your fuel hoses, those OEM ones are probably hard as my toilet seat.

If you think those yum cha Ryco filters are horse shit made by my ancestors or cousins, just go buy OEM problem solved.

How hard is your toilet seat so we can compare?

I use ryco oil filters and don't get any startup noise. My lifters were stripped and cleaned 3000km ago

How hard is your toilet seat so we can compare?

I use ryco oil filters and don't get any startup noise. My lifters were stripped and cleaned 3000km ago

lol maybe I was a tad harsh... but I see many R33 still using their stock fuel lines (hence the leaks). EFI hose is like $8 per meter, why not replace it? I highly doubt a 0.5mm difference is to blame.

In terms of oil filters, that start up noise I cannot imagine it being related to just an oil filter. I've used Ryco and now just use Cooper ($5, meh lol)

The details of the leaks was in the other my other thread . I DID buy brand new 5/16" (7.94mm) EFI hose and I DID use the OE Nissan fuel line clamps and its the NEW hose that leaks on the garbage grade Z201 fuel filter . I had to refit the original hose below the filter and it doesn't leak now . This hose is not RS by the way and considering its in real good nick where the clamps were- and are again .

The PRC Z201 is supposed to have 8mm tubes either side but only the outlet one is . The inlet side is slightly smaller and it is out of round as well , both sides are . The inlet was 7.91 to 7.93 and the new 5/16" hose is not exactly tight on the filter outlet or the fuel rails inlet . When you screw up a genuine clamp that tight that its beginning to physically crush into the hose but you can still twist the clamped hose on the rail it doesn't inspire confidence , using the original hose everything is snug - even on the undersized POS Z201 inlet tube .

I decided to put money where mouth is and buy a genuine oil and fuel filter from John Robinson Nissan at Rockdale , they do the Nissan import bits in Sydney . For the record the fuel filter is Nissan 16400-41B1A and the oil filter is Nissan 15208H890C and cost $57 .

The fuel filter fittings are exactly the same 8.03 mm and ARE round . To blow through there is NO resistance at all where in a brand new Z201 there is .

If I didn't know any better I'd say the genuine article is a fine mesh strainer , the invoice quotes "Strainer ASSY-Fuel" , where the Z201 uses paper cartridges . If I can find a used genuine filter I'll cut it open to see what Nissan thinks is best . From RIPCO a Z201 bites you around $28 where Nissan wants ~ $36+ GST . For oil the Z145a was ~$6 and genuine $15 and a bit + GST . Must be interesting making an oil filter and sending it half way round the world and making money retailing it for six dollars . I'll be paying the extra tenish dollars and fitting what the manufacturer uses thank you .

A .

wow... I pay like around $15 for a Ryco filter around my hood..

Interesting you have leaks, I've always just used cheap shit on all my nissans and have never had a leak.

GUD Automotive has only in recent times outsourced manufacturing to PRC . Google Ryco filters made in China and read about quality control or the - yeah you know . Certain lines of their filters are known problems and trying to fix this looks to be driving the local distributors crazy .

Your calls but my fuel and lube systems are worth more than $57 and having fuel pooling on the ground isn't healthy .

Lastly the boxes have in ant sized print made in Japan not the other joint nearby like Ryco ones do .

A .

Don't know if this one I pulled out of my r32gtst is oem but it's definitely a paper filter inside.

...the brown stuff is rust, after my fuel pump died I discovered the large o-ring seal at the top of the sender unit must have been installed incorrectly, as it had a kink and squished flat spot, it appears to have been like that from new.

Yes the rust was from the fuel tank and you should have seen the pile I removed from the tank, no wonder the pump failed.

post-89296-0-52227700-1354690900_thumb.jpg

post-89296-0-63382400-1354690911_thumb.jpg

Jecs would be Japanese but not sure if standard , looks like it needed replacing a long time ago .

The current genuine filter top wraps around a rolled edge at the top of the can , the opposite to your one .

A .

Quite possibly is original, our family imported about 5 skylines, all low mileage and totally stock as fare as I can tell. This particular car still had the 100kph over speed warning attached.

The Chinese made Ryco filters seem to be better quality than those sourced from other countries: http://www.repcotrade.com.au/go/news/important-quality-message-from-ryco

They haven't been made here for years. I personally use a K&N oil filter (made in the USA).

In terms of oil filters, that start up noise I cannot imagine it being related to just an oil filter. I've used Ryco and now just use Cooper ($5, meh lol)

If the anti- drainback valve in the filter isn't particlularily effective (or completely missing, as is the case in cheap generic filters), oil will have to first flow through the filter before it gets to the engine. This momentary lack of oil isn't good, and can explain cold start noise.

The issue would be that your oil pump has to prime then fill the oil filter before any significant oil pressure got to the main gallery / bearings / valve train etc .

The usual process is that countries like this offshore manufacturing because they cannot be price competitive with countries that have pathetic wages and conditions . Oh , and the mass market buys on price too .

This is not to say that the most expensive items will always be the best quality ones because as we we know manufacturing cost often has little bearing on retail price . The burning question is why has not the price fallen if manufacturing costs have ?

Anyway I think if people are going to be a bit serious about expensive oils and PULP fuels they should extend this towards good filters as well .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...