Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yer, c'mon guys one more taker:)

Count me in. I was going to go to Andrew direct as I thought I missed out on the group buy.

Rudi, I reckon we practice on yours and then do mine...

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Count me in. I was going to go to Andrew direct as I thought I missed out on the group buy.

Rudi, I reckon we practice on yours and then do mine...

Done!

I'll send PMs with payment info this evening.

Thanks guys!

  • 1 month later...

Does someone do 76mm joiner?

Sonic Performance have a bunch of different joiners in various sizes: http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/Hoses-_and_-Clamps/Silicone-Hose-Blue/pl.php

Compared to ebay pricing, their pricing was the same or cheaper when I was looking. Does anyone know anywhere cheaper?

That seems about as cheap as anywhere. I'm about to buy some stuff (not silicon) from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ , & adding a 3" joiner would increase my order by US$6.99 (joiner) & US$3 (freight). So really no better off than buying it from your link unless they charge heaps for shipping

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...