Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls.

I'm new here and own a 97' R33 Gts-t.

The Missus wants us to have a more family car, so what better then a Stagea!.

I know its hard to judge and tell just but the carsales add, but if i could get some opinions on this one i would much appreciate it :)

im pretty new to the Stagea world, so all the help i can get would be awesome.

Thanks, Kurt

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/nissan-stagea-1999-12631387?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=12&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1246+1252+1247+1282+4294963846+4294960181+903+1216&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415413-thinking-of-buying-a-stagea/
Share on other sites

had the 100k service = fake kms

i would say its been in an accident too, if you get it checked out professionally with warranty could be ok, still a little expensive

edit - the passenger head light looks fogged up also

Edited by BigBoyDan

Hey guys and girls.

I'm new here and own a 97' R33 Gts-t.

The Missus wants us to have a more family car, so what better then a Stagea!.

I know its hard to judge and tell just but the carsales add, but if i could get some opinions on this one i would much appreciate it :)

im pretty new to the Stagea world, so all the help i can get would be awesome.

Thanks, Kurt

http://www.carsales....ck&sort=default

could you be more specific about what u want to know??

had the 100k service = fake kms

i would say its been in an accident too, if you get it checked out professionally with warranty could be ok, still a little expensive

edit - the passenger head light looks fogged up also

totally agree its definately had the front end resprayed and the clock is wound back. its over priced to hell for an auto.

damn, getting turned of it now you think there fake kms and had a hit :(

fairly obvious actually. the clock says 75,000 but it still has the japanese 100,000km service sticker on the airbox. obviously to stupid to peel it off. the paint forward of the front doors looks fresher than the rest and the rad is skewed on the mounts. which is a great indicator of a front hit.

my hearts not set on yellow at all, lol...would probably prefer non yellow.

that one uis alot better but its in another state :(

give the "purchasing a stagea" thread a really good read mate. then make sure every car u look at is thoroughly checked over. and the best advice you will recieve about the stagea section is to use the search function ALOT all your questions will have been answered time and time again.

Hmm, this one is actually closer to where i live...had someone tell me once though not to go past 99' models anything later are not as good??

http://www.carsales....ck&sort=default

dont say stuff like that, or this will turn into another C34 VS M35 thread. lets just say they're all good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...