Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:laugh:

Im Captain slow, but i want to be fast.

A professional driver might be good........... to teach me how to drive! :D

PS3 aint no race school.

I wonder if rb20 injectors will go in it?

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

Today I received in the post...

1) a set of R31 rear brake pads
2) a spare RB30 Air Flow Meter
3) a Full RB30 intake manifold including... Throttle body, TPS, AAC, Cold Start Valve, both Coolant sensors, Full fuel rail with regulator, injectors etc...

Picked up from a fella in Kambah... a StageA Cargo Net and Floor Matt.

post-78856-0-22415300-1389340511_thumb.jpg Really need to Vac the Wags.

I pulled one rear caliper off, assessed the situation and reassembled... Not Sure if I will try changing the rear pads or pay someone. :/
Tricky/Unusual bitch of a thing.

Degreased and cleaned inside passengers rear wheel as it was CAKED with THICK grease from it's previous life.

Then did a little Chirpy Skid while I chucked a U-turn in my street.

H :woot: :woot: N !!!

To compress the piston, you have to twist in the correct direction while pushing inwards. The handbrake uses the pads not internal shoes like a 33 does.

I might buy a proper tool or see if I can find something/make one.

Nah, ran out of time incase it all went pear shaped. I just put it all back together and walked away, scratching my bearded chin with an audible "Hmmmm f**kity" :D

So you got the windscreen replaced?

Wow you so lucky... :/ There's no way I would've tried for a RWC on SkyWagon straight up.

Tyres, Handbrake, Shocks, Wiperblades, Rear Brakes, Exhaust Leaks... All needed attention. (in Theory)

Actually your right Rob I physically pickup the rwc on Monday when I pick the swifty up. Got the phone call late yesterday.

- Windscreen replaced, Wiper blades, cat cut off and another welded in. everything else in good working order.

By the looks of it and the paperwork it's been re-registered firstly in NSW (nov2011) from the ACT, and recently (Mar2013) from NSW back to ACT. Not driven since July 2013.

So that's why I think there is not much to do having passed twice in 2 years. It has newish tyres on it. - BTW one tyre on the GTR cost more than all 4 on the swift

I'd say when the cat collapsed on itself it blocked the exhaust and the guy I got it from has gone it's all too hard/expensive and cancelled rego.

Windscreen was cracked here in the complex while it was parked.

Figure it was best to take it in and get it assessed ASAP. So I could decide to repair & register /or not.

I can be more critical than rego inspectors when it's one of my cars.

Comes in @ about $1000 registered for 3months. When I get it back I'll do the detailing and full service.

Most of the cost is in the Windscreen and replacing the Cat.

Perhaps should have asked Mik to cut the cat out and weld one in - oh well I'm sure he is busy and got better things to do.

Plus believe it or not I can be IMPATIENT :P

Edited by Sinista32

R31 rear pads aren't too hard. I just use a pair of pliers to wind the pistons in. If you can be bothered rebleeding it's much easier doing it on a bench.

I've been playing with this, just waiting on flanges and steampipe bends to make manifolds.

post-31629-0-75699600-1389390891_thumb.jpeg

"Plus believe it or not I can be IMPATIENT :P"




Hahaha! i know the feeling. :thumbsup:




Paint it?




FJ20: That looks very tight. turbo 1uz...... :banana:


Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

Installed a 3" dump/front today.

What a bitch of a job.. Seriously..

Anyway she's all good now. Actually sounds quiter down low but at wide open throttle its a little louder. Can also hear some other noises that I didn't notice with the catback which is maaad!! :D

Yeah 3 inch, though im still running the stock cat so its probably a little restricted still. The dump/front is a piece that I bought from Canberra Import Spares (do love those guys! They’re always helping me out), it says Advance on it though I have no idea if that’s the brand or not.. Then stock cat and then a HKS Hi Power catback :)

Edited by dontyellpl0x

Nice work Chris! Is it a Bellmouth? Guessing you didn't break any bolts?

Well after further bearded chin scratching and consultation with a Guru, (Eiji) I had another crack at changing the rear pads on the SkyWagon.

I made myself a nifty little tool which did the trick perfectly. :D

This is the Rear Brake Piston, It needs to be turned and pushed at the same time to compress it so you can fit in the new pads.

post-78856-0-29197800-1389418067_thumb.jpg

This is the tool I created. It's 2 different sparkplug spanners and a bolt.

(I drilled a hole thru it to fit the bolt in.)

Bolt goes in the slots, push in and turn with the handle. Simples. :)

Passenger side = CLOCKWISE, Drivers side = ANTI-CLOCKWISE.

post-78856-0-47362000-1389418070_thumb.jpg

New pads. $25 posted from Ebay. Good enough for Rego. (actually feel really good)

post-78856-0-48080600-1389418074_thumb.jpg

New vs Old. (passengers side, but Drivers was thinner again. I think the drivers rear tyre was Balder too... Someone say Single pegging Burnouts?) :/

post-78856-0-28733600-1389418072_thumb.jpg

NOW she WILL pass Rego re-inspect. :woot: (maybe Monday.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...