Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the option to go with an eflex setup is becomming more attractive but the part that still has me questioning is the fuel supply set up.

I have a 34 GTR and theres a fair bit of infor for for 32/33 guys about especially in regards to twin intank.

This option seems more attractive as its hidden and the associated fuel smells with surge tanks that some people get.

But the cost of going twin intank seems to be $1000 for the cradle (from power tune) plus the fuel pumps.

But surge tanks seem be available for around $200 plus fuel pumps.

So what other options are available for intank, $1000 just for a cradle just seems to be rather expensive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415713-twin-intank-vs-surge-tank/
Share on other sites

As Scotty said mounting two pumps in the tank isn't hard.

To do it right you really should get the correct bulk head electrical fittings and run separate power supplies into the tank.

I've seen a couple that people have linked the pumps together using the original plug. It draws to much current and melts the connector.

Also you can either join the pump outlets together inside the tank and run a -8 bulk head out the original sender lid.

Or block off the original 5/16ths outlet port and install two new -6 bulk heads into the sender lid and run dual fuel lines.

I dont know if it was just because my intank was mounted wrong or not but without a surge tank my car runs out of fuel under hard cornering when Ive got less than half a tank.... never had an isssue on the street, but on the track its a different story...

not dead set on a in tank, just looking at available options.

Also will the new 400l e85 walbro support around 360kw with e85, and has anyone used the fitting kits that come with the pumps that states there for 32/33/34 GTR....

Edited by sinistaGTR

Some one on here (cant remember) did the figures and reckons they will do up to 450rwkw on E85...

i know Piggaz was going to fit one as his lift pump to his surge tank but there was a bit of work involved so he just went with the 044..

dunno if it came with a gitting kit.

im using 2 of the 400's in my surge tank... so quiet :D

Awesome thanks for the info on the new single pumps. If anyone has fitted one of these to a 33/34 gtr and can say how the fitment was or how they did it that would be great, especially with the pickup being away from the pump itself

Ok I have gained all the info out of this thread and various PMs with other users.

I will summarise what I have gained for any people looking into this for the future:

The new walbro 400L seem the go, but make sure that you get the new design the doesnt have bleed holes otherwise your going to have issues when it gets under 1/4 tank because the first edition 400L need to be completely submerged.

Nismo is holding up fine for ss8_gohan with nearly 400kw, so if you have a nismo and arent planning to go higher then keep your nismo, no surge issues etc.

Twin or surge tank setups is for the big power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...