Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The engine in our 35 runs so smooth and feels like new so it was a surprise to me that one hot day on parra road the temp needle started to spike where it shouldnt to the point where i almost had to pull over. This was frustrating so yesterday i pulled up in the drive way and let it run on 3000rpm untill it started to get hot.. i jumped under the hood to find that only one of the 2 thermo fans were running. The passenger side fan was not working with the temp gauge at 3/4. Can anyone help me fix this problem? is there a fuse for it somewhere or anything i can trouble shoot to get it working again.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416354-radiator-fan-issue/
Share on other sites

Didn't Alex discover that the PNM35 fans switched on very late (98 deg), and was able to lower the switch point to around 88-90 deg with his Uprev?

I wouldn't be surprised if this isn't a similar issue; along with improper bleeding.

Stock temp switch for the fans is 100 degrees. Uprev can set the temp to whatever ou choose.

Normally the fans won't switch on unless stuck in traffic, or idling for extended periods.

Look and the connections first, they are plugged in at the back of the fan. You can test by applying 12 volts to the fan, if no good then get a new set from wreckers.

But i agree, make sure no leaks, and correctly bled too.

the fan motors can burn out...

95 degrees? is that at the rad input or thermostat?

my car always runs at 2/3 to 3/4 on the gauge, replaced everything except for the gauge itself. installed my own thermo fan setup with a 78 degree switch between the rad output and thermostat... 78 degrees is at the 2/3 to 3/4 mark on the gauge, which was checked as being 78 degrees with a scantool aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...