Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Having a 02 sensor dilema, First pic is current dodgy one in the car. Second pic is new 02 sensor.

Obviously the plugs are different. The one in the car doesn't look like it is the correct one, 4 wire plug with only 3 wires connected.

Anyone know which wire is which and how to wire up to the new one?

Cheers

Trent

post-49270-0-41023500-1356917158_thumb.jpg

post-49270-0-26969700-1356917170_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416491-02-sensor-help-c34-s1/
Share on other sites

looks like somone may have butchered the original loom to fit the O2 sensor that is currently installed. the new one you have seems to be the stock loom setup. You have a couple of options though;

You can source the original loom connector to fit the standard O2 sensor you have bought and cut off the one you have in there already...OR.....

you can keep the same connector and cut off the new one and splice the wires together. The 2 white wires are for the heating element in the sensor and the black wire is the signal wire that goes to your ECU.

your first picture doesnt show which colours are connected to the actual oxygen sensor. IT looks like its a 4 wire connector and the green one is the only one not connected. You might want to use a voltage tester and test the wires so you know which one is which.

If you search ebay you can buy a factory style plug if you want to revert to the factory setup.

... and here is a link but you need to be careful when crimping as they are quite delicate.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/O2-Power-Feed-Sensor-Plug-Nissan-RB-SR-3-Pin-/220743549929

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.
    • So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this   I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.  
    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
×
×
  • Create New...