Jump to content
SAU Community

Intalling a Turbotimer

JezR31

By JezR31,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

JezR31 Mentor

JezR31

Posted
Posted

Tools required - Phillips head screwdriver and 10 mm socket and ratchet attachment.

This procedure takes about 20 minutes.

STEP 1:

Disconnect the battery. Turn three plastic clips in front carpeted portion of the boot/trunk to remove this carpeted wall. Clips pop off when turned.

BatteryPic.jpg

STEP 2:

Loosen right side bolts in location specified.

HoodReleaseBolts.jpg

STEP 3:

Loosen left side bolt in location specified.

ThirdBoltLeft.jpg

STEP 4:

Pry bottom panel out slightly on left side. Be careful not to break anything. Just pull it enough to allow a grip on it in the future steps.

PullLeftPanelOut.jpg

STEP 5:

Repeat with right side. Pull slightly upwards. You may pry the panel above this one (shown to the left) out a bit if it helps- it just snaps on again. There are four hooks at the top of this piece that locate it at the top. Bolts secure the bottom, but the piece hooks into four slots at the top. ** Remember this for the reinstallation, it is the most difficult part in putting the piece back in correctly.

PullRightPanelOut.jpg

STEP 6:

Remove bottom piece (only at bottom of pic, the top piece need not be removed for this install so please ignore it). Put in a safe place.

RemovedPieces.jpg

STEP 7:

Remove harness from turbo timer box.

HarnessPic1.jpg

STEP 8:

Plug in harness into location shown behind ignition.

HarnessLocation.jpg

STEP 9:

Plug in the timer to the harness, and any other wires between harness and timer.

CheckWiring.jpg

STEP 10:

Ground the black wire on harness to a location that is unpainted bare metal. The location I chose is shown below and to the left. A 10mm ratchet was used to remove the bolt here and hook up the ground wire.

GroundWireLoc.jpg

STEP 11:

Hook up the battery again. Check your timer's operation now.

SuccessTT.jpg

STEP 12:

Choose a mounting location and route your wires in any manner you choose. Secure loose wires that may intrude into the driver footwell.

FinishedTT1.jpg

NOTES:

Installation of panel is exact opposite of removal. Just pay particular attention to the part about the slots on top of the bottom panel you removed. Line up all four hooks with slots, then push the panel slightly upwards and towards the front of the car. Make sure fit is right before you screw in three bottom bolts in steps (3) and (4).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
boj01 Experienced

boj01

Posted
Posted

You need to locate the wiring which comes out of the ignition and is held onto the steering column by a black plastic tie. There is a plug at the end of this and if you have the right loom adapter for your car, it will plug straight in.

It starts getting a bit more tricky when you don't have a plug in timer and have to locate and solder wires together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Yotis Experienced

Yotis

Posted
Posted

Correct the turbo timer will be installed differently if you have an alarm and immobiliser, I'd take it to a workshop to have them install it in this case (preferably the shop that installed your alarm). You will also most likely have to fork out a small amount of $$ for an alarm relay that sits between the alarm and the turbo timer as well. If your lucky the workshop might only charge you just the relay cost. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
Silver_R34_GT-T Grand Master

Silver_R34_GT-T

Posted
Posted

hey, i bought a blitz turbo timer, and when the guys installed it, all the features like, boost and automatic timer dont work.. (i have to pre set all times instead of it working it out itself)

i went back to them and they said "u didnt tell us to install the features, only the turbo timer"

WTF

anyway, to get the features hooked up, they want another $110bucks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

does anyone know how to hook up these featues ie boost and automatic timer? if so please help

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 2 months later...
SilverECR33 Veteran

SilverECR33

Posted
Posted

pictures seem to be not working, ie.

STEP 2:

Loosen right side bolts in location specified.

STEP 3:

Loosen left side bolt in location specified.

and as you can see, with these above steps, u cannot follow thru without pics? can someone add info to the initial DIY post, to paint apicture, so this can be done without real Pictures, or can you fix picture links?

cheers,

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
guricha Collaborator

guricha

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have allready installed turbo timer if someone need steb by steb instalation manua i can update tomorrow but pictures are from mobilephone

Edited by guricha
Link to comment
Share on other sites
bloodsword27 Veteran

bloodsword27

Posted
Posted

while on the topic of installing turbotimers and alarms and the sort, i would NOT recommend AutoMotiv from sydney to do any installations. they totally FKD up my alarm and fried my turbo timer, and wont fix anything coz they claim the original turbo was wired wrong (yet stupidly they still wired straight into it anyway). so now i have a c car with a fried alarm and turbo timer...f'ing pricks. id never go back there...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Darrel
      Theoretical Power Numbers

      By Darrel · Posted

      @Butters I can't tell you why but the bigger HKS step 2 cams improved low and mid end immensely. Turbos started spooling about 1k RPM less than before and the idle/vacuum was rock solid, it was an absolute thrill to drive, 3rd gear pulls hit 180kmh where previously only managed 160. Conversely, the milder poncoms in there now have a funky idle making it harder to get off the line, drives poorly in lower revs, laggy and makes less power/torque throughout. Feels better after I swapped the EBC but unless I put it on the Dyno again, I can't say how much better.
    • stasis
      Stagea Suspension

      By stasis · Posted

      Hi Sydney kid   do you still selling spring and blistein shocks for Nissan 260rs? Air any suspension upgrades? Please advice     yudy
    • Butters
      Theoretical Power Numbers

      By Butters · Posted

      Cams are not needed at this power level, they will create lag. The cam gears are a good idea though.
    • Darrel
      Theoretical Power Numbers

      By Darrel · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera yeah, I guessed as much, cooler temps, more boost, less knock, more timing, hello power. Unfortunately not quite within reach ATM, could upgrade my whole fuel system to support but still wouldn't have E85 to run it 😂  Anyway, I changed cams again, 260/260 poncam B and everything else the same except an EBC upgrade. Now I must say I was quite disappointed with the result as it was like running stock cams (didn't try to dial them in as they're supposed to be optimum already) but after awhile I suspected my new EBC was underperforming not to mention difficult to use. I recently swapped back my old EBC and it drives much better now, boost comes on sooner, more stable, no spikes etc, feels all quicker and faster than with stock cams. Planning to fiddle with the cam gears and see what happens but maybe skip the Dyno as I intend to revert to the HKS cams cos they really made the car come alive; low and mid end was unbelievable and it just wanted to rev to the moon, finally knew what people were raving about, RB26 really loves revs. Anyway, Dyno 03 is quite disappointing, in Dyno 02 although peak power was less and trailed off at the top, the low and mid end improvement more than made up for it.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Theoretical Power Numbers

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Darrel It's so tempting to say e85 is borderline magic. It cools the intake charge, so if you're flirting with the edge of the turbos compressor map it helps dramatically cool down the hot air the turbos are pumping. It is very resistant to detonation so you can crank the timing, I don't really want to say you won't be knock limited anymore.... but you probably wont be knock limited anymore lol. I wouldn't be surprised if you made 20% more power swapping to e85 (provided you have the fuel system to support them, bigger injectors maybe bigger pump etc). 
×
×
  • Create New...