R32 Actuator On R33

[White_33]

I'm after some advice if anyone can point me in the right direction please. I was running a MBC but was pulled over by the popo so $352 later I'm going down the route of an R32 actuator on my R33.

I managed to find one from a reputable source, installed it (still via the solenoid) but it won't boost past 7psi. The solenoid is grounded so I thought it should be hitting more than that. I had a look on this forum and found some other posts describing the install process, basically running a tube from intercooler pipping straight to the actuator but I'm concerned it will overboost and do some possible damage. The only thing I did try was to run from the IC pipping to the actuator but I also kept the BOV connected to the solenoid but that made no difference.

Even if I'm running through the solenoid, shouldn't it be boosting more that 7psi? Did I get a R33 actuator instead of a R32?

Thanks.

[GTSBoy]

Sounds like you have an R33 actuator. R32 should give you ~10psi if it is hooked up direct. If you hook it up through the solenoid, you should actually get more.

[White_33]

Will get it replaced, thanks for your help.

[KiwiRS4T]

There is no reason why it should overboost if the hose is secured properly. R32 has no solenoid. How is your bov connected to the solenoid?

[White_33]

I've got 2 lines running into the solenoid, 1 from the BOV (top solenoid) and 1 from the intercooler pipping (bottom). So I go straight from the I/C pipping into the R32 actuator and am left with the BOV pipping still connected.

On a side note I just swapped over the actuator with another R32 actuator and it's still only hitting 7psi. I'll try running from the I/C -> actuator and blocking off the other line.

[KiwiRS4T]

Ignore the solenoid for the moment (disconnect the wiring if you like or not). . Run a pipe from the boost source (intercooler pipe will do since it has a nipple you can use) directly to the actuator. Secure the pipe so that it won't blow off. Block off the line that is going to the bov return pipe. You should be making around 10 psi.

[White_33]

Cheers for the followup, will be doing this 2mrw and let u know how it goes. I just don't understand why it isn't boosting more than 7psi even if I am running through the solenoid. If anything I thought it'd hit around 10-12psi.....

[White_33]

OK, tried blocking the BOV vac line and ran another from I/C nipple to actuator but still only hitting 7psi!! Dunno where to go from here. If it was an R33 actuator, shouldn't it be free boosting if I'm bypassing the solenoid altogether?? Were R32 gtst actuators ever rated at 7psi instead of 10psi? Maybe the series 1?

If anyone can shed some light it would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

[GTSBoy]

Not free boosting, no. 10 psi, yes.

There were no "series 1" R32s. All the same spec.

Something is wrong. Either it is still an R33 actuator, or it is installed incorrectly so that the wastegate flapper is not closed.

[#skyginer]

Does the vacuum line tube on the actuator have a steel 90 bend on it so its facing forward, or straight out and down? If it has the bend that means it's a 33 acutator... search google to see the visual difference

[Got a Pulsar]

R33 Actuator.

R32 Actuator.

Mine goes straight from the cooler pipe to the actuator and the nipple on the BOV return pipe is Blocked. I get 9 - 10psi.

Solenoid is removed.

[White_33]

Not free boosting, no. 10 psi, yes.

There were no "series 1" R32s. All the same spec.

Something is wrong. Either it is still an R33 actuator, or it is installed incorrectly so that the wastegate flapper is not closed.

I was referring to the R33 actuator. If it was off an R33, doesn't the solenoind control the boost level so bypassing it would cause unliimted/freeboosting? Hmmm not sure how it could be installed incorrectly -> removed old actuator, connected other one.

Is there any way the spring could be stuck causing it not to boost more than 7psi? If so any way to loosen it?

Will have a look 2nite to find out if it has the steel bend on it.

Thanks for all the info and replies.

[KiwiRS4T]

I was referring to the R33 actuator. If it was off an R33, doesn't the solenoind control the boost level so bypassing it would cause unliimted/freeboosting? Hmmm not sure how it could be installed incorrectly -> removed old actuator, connected other one.

Is there any way the spring could be stuck causing it not to boost more than 7psi? If so any way to loosen it?

Will have a look 2nite to find out if it has the steel bend on it.

Thanks for all the info and replies.

No the R33 actuator is controlled by the 7lb spring. With any actuator it will free boost if you pull the hose right off. You can make 10psi with your R33 actuator (if that's what it turns out to be) by installing a T in the line and running a bleed off to the bov return pipe as in the pic below. You need to restrict the bleed line to the bov return until you get the desired boost level.

[GTSBoy]

I was referring to the R33 actuator. If it was off an R33, doesn't the solenoind control the boost level so bypassing it would cause unliimted/freeboosting? Hmmm not sure how it could be installed incorrectly -> removed old actuator, connected other one.

Is there any way the spring could be stuck causing it not to boost more than 7psi? If so any way to loosen it?

Will have a look 2nite to find out if it has the steel bend on it.

Thanks for all the info and replies.

Yuh, as Kiwi said above. I tend to think that you misunderstand how the actuators and the solenoid interact. The spring in the R33 actuator will control to 7 psi if it is connected directly to the boost source. When connected to the solenoid, the solenoid can be either powered or unpowered. Open or closed. When the solenoid is closed, then the actuator is effectively connected directly to the boost source. You get 7 psi. When the solenoid is open, all it does is open that same boost source-actuator line up to a controlled bleed. Exactly as if there was a manual boost controller plumbed in bleeding off some of the boost signal. With that bleed workign, you get 10 psi.

The R32 actuator's spring is good for 10 psi. So if it is hooked directly, or the solenoid is closed, you get 10 psi. pen the solenoid so it bleeds, you get something higher, maybe 13 psi.

The only way you could bugger all that up is by connecting the boost source to the wrong port on the solenoid so that it is on the vent side that normally goes back to the BOV return. Then you would be able to free boost because the actuator wouldn't see any boost at all. But you don't have that problem.

[White_33]

No the R33 actuator is controlled by the 7lb spring. With any actuator it will free boost if you pull the hose right off. You can make 10psi with your R33 actuator (if that's what it turns out to be) by installing a T in the line and running a bleed off to the bov return pipe as in the pic below. You need to restrict the bleed line to the bov return until you get the desired boost level.

Isn't that basically a manual boost controller though?

[GTSBoy]

Yes it is. And they are no bad thing really. Not the best boost control in the world.......but not really different to your solenoid, as I described above. The only trickiness about the solenoid is that the ECU can decide to give you low boost and high boost at certain times. The boost control itself though, is no different to any other manual boost control bleeder thingo. You can get a certain amount of overshoot as boost rises, and you will probably get a certain amount of boost fall off as revs get close to max. No different.

[White_33]

Thanks KiwiRS4T and GTSBoy, you've given me a greater understanding of how it all works now.

Seems like it's all pointing to me getting yet another R33 actuator rather than a R32. Just seems strange though as I saw it come off the turbo and It still had the pin on it which had to be removed to fit on my turbo. Would the diameter of the hose going from actuator to I/C pipping have any effect on the amount of boost it would let through? (Mine was a super tight fit).

Cheers,

Edited January 16, 2013 by White_33

[GTSBoy]

All you need to do is compare aganist those photos above. Hose diameter will not afect you. A really big, fat hose will cause the boost to overshoot the setpoint as it comes on, then fall back. You do not have that problem. A skinny boost hose is the ideal, as it transmits the pneumatic signal (the pressure) the fastest. Won't affect the boost setpoint either way (just how well it controls as it gets to the setpoint).

[johnriney]

Sounds like you have an R33 actuator.

[Got a Pulsar]

^^^^^^