Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm after some advice if anyone can point me in the right direction please. I was running a MBC but was pulled over by the popo so $352 later I'm going down the route of an R32 actuator on my R33.

I managed to find one from a reputable source, installed it (still via the solenoid) but it won't boost past 7psi. The solenoid is grounded so I thought it should be hitting more than that. I had a look on this forum and found some other posts describing the install process, basically running a tube from intercooler pipping straight to the actuator but I'm concerned it will overboost and do some possible damage. The only thing I did try was to run from the IC pipping to the actuator but I also kept the BOV connected to the solenoid but that made no difference.

Even if I'm running through the solenoid, shouldn't it be boosting more that 7psi? Did I get a R33 actuator instead of a R32?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416987-r32-actuator-on-r33/
Share on other sites

I've got 2 lines running into the solenoid, 1 from the BOV (top solenoid) and 1 from the intercooler pipping (bottom). So I go straight from the I/C pipping into the R32 actuator and am left with the BOV pipping still connected.

On a side note I just swapped over the actuator with another R32 actuator and it's still only hitting 7psi. I'll try running from the I/C -> actuator and blocking off the other line.

Ignore the solenoid for the moment (disconnect the wiring if you like or not). . Run a pipe from the boost source (intercooler pipe will do since it has a nipple you can use) directly to the actuator. Secure the pipe so that it won't blow off. Block off the line that is going to the bov return pipe. You should be making around 10 psi.

OK, tried blocking the BOV vac line and ran another from I/C nipple to actuator but still only hitting 7psi!! Dunno where to go from here. If it was an R33 actuator, shouldn't it be free boosting if I'm bypassing the solenoid altogether?? Were R32 gtst actuators ever rated at 7psi instead of 10psi? Maybe the series 1?

If anyone can shed some light it would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Not free boosting, no. 10 psi, yes.

There were no "series 1" R32s. All the same spec.

Something is wrong. Either it is still an R33 actuator, or it is installed incorrectly so that the wastegate flapper is not closed.

I was referring to the R33 actuator. If it was off an R33, doesn't the solenoind control the boost level so bypassing it would cause unliimted/freeboosting? Hmmm not sure how it could be installed incorrectly -> removed old actuator, connected other one.

Is there any way the spring could be stuck causing it not to boost more than 7psi? If so any way to loosen it?

Will have a look 2nite to find out if it has the steel bend on it.

Thanks for all the info and replies. :)

I was referring to the R33 actuator. If it was off an R33, doesn't the solenoind control the boost level so bypassing it would cause unliimted/freeboosting? Hmmm not sure how it could be installed incorrectly -> removed old actuator, connected other one.

Is there any way the spring could be stuck causing it not to boost more than 7psi? If so any way to loosen it?

Will have a look 2nite to find out if it has the steel bend on it.

Thanks for all the info and replies. :)

No the R33 actuator is controlled by the 7lb spring. With any actuator it will free boost if you pull the hose right off. You can make 10psi with your R33 actuator (if that's what it turns out to be) by installing a T in the line and running a bleed off to the bov return pipe as in the pic below. You need to restrict the bleed line to the bov return until you get the desired boost level.

SolenoidBypassSmall.jpg

I was referring to the R33 actuator. If it was off an R33, doesn't the solenoind control the boost level so bypassing it would cause unliimted/freeboosting? Hmmm not sure how it could be installed incorrectly -> removed old actuator, connected other one.

Is there any way the spring could be stuck causing it not to boost more than 7psi? If so any way to loosen it?

Will have a look 2nite to find out if it has the steel bend on it.

Thanks for all the info and replies. :)

Yuh, as Kiwi said above. I tend to think that you misunderstand how the actuators and the solenoid interact. The spring in the R33 actuator will control to 7 psi if it is connected directly to the boost source. When connected to the solenoid, the solenoid can be either powered or unpowered. Open or closed. When the solenoid is closed, then the actuator is effectively connected directly to the boost source. You get 7 psi. When the solenoid is open, all it does is open that same boost source-actuator line up to a controlled bleed. Exactly as if there was a manual boost controller plumbed in bleeding off some of the boost signal. With that bleed workign, you get 10 psi.

The R32 actuator's spring is good for 10 psi. So if it is hooked directly, or the solenoid is closed, you get 10 psi. pen the solenoid so it bleeds, you get something higher, maybe 13 psi.

The only way you could bugger all that up is by connecting the boost source to the wrong port on the solenoid so that it is on the vent side that normally goes back to the BOV return. Then you would be able to free boost because the actuator wouldn't see any boost at all. But you don't have that problem.

No the R33 actuator is controlled by the 7lb spring. With any actuator it will free boost if you pull the hose right off. You can make 10psi with your R33 actuator (if that's what it turns out to be) by installing a T in the line and running a bleed off to the bov return pipe as in the pic below. You need to restrict the bleed line to the bov return until you get the desired boost level.

Isn't that basically a manual boost controller though?

Yes it is. And they are no bad thing really. Not the best boost control in the world.......but not really different to your solenoid, as I described above. The only trickiness about the solenoid is that the ECU can decide to give you low boost and high boost at certain times. The boost control itself though, is no different to any other manual boost control bleeder thingo. You can get a certain amount of overshoot as boost rises, and you will probably get a certain amount of boost fall off as revs get close to max. No different.

Thanks KiwiRS4T and GTSBoy, you've given me a greater understanding of how it all works now. :)

Seems like it's all pointing to me getting yet another R33 actuator rather than a R32. Just seems strange though as I saw it come off the turbo and It still had the pin on it which had to be removed to fit on my turbo. Would the diameter of the hose going from actuator to I/C pipping have any effect on the amount of boost it would let through? (Mine was a super tight fit).

Cheers,

Edited by White_33

All you need to do is compare aganist those photos above. Hose diameter will not afect you. A really big, fat hose will cause the boost to overshoot the setpoint as it comes on, then fall back. You do not have that problem. A skinny boost hose is the ideal, as it transmits the pneumatic signal (the pressure) the fastest. Won't affect the boost setpoint either way (just how well it controls as it gets to the setpoint).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...