Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R33 gtr brembos are direct bolt on to z32. IF r33 gtr brembos are bolt on to r33, then in theory the z32 caliper 'dogbone' adapters will fit r33 and enable 324mm rotors with stock calipers.

Early ones were alum, later ones iron.

Regardless, it's a simple and cheap mod for 324mm rotors, assuming the r33gtr calipers are bolt on to 33gtst as I said in my first post.

Edited by MagicMikeZ32

So why'd you get them??

If you actually do go to the track just make sure you put in some good fluid and it will be fine..it will take you a year of track days before you kill the brakes at least and that's if your a hack or very fast, they should last much longer if you drive clean

I'm not sure what the specific concern is about ADR approved brakes lines when the calipers, pads and discs, or how they work as part of a system, are also not ADR approved?

I think it is because it is easy to build a caliper that actually works without breaking open and leaking your fluid out while you're trying to stop. But there was a time when the first braided lines were being tried by people when there were inferior ways of swaging the ends on and so on that led to them failing. The ADR regs for how brake lines were to be constructed (or the tests they had to pass at least) already existed, so they just made it a requirement that any aftermarket ones had to be ADR approved. Not that the requirement wasn't already there in effect anyway, but at least if you require that they have a specific approval number granted by the regulatory body, you have an effecttive filter to stop the carppy ones being used.

Sure, there may be good ones available that don't have approval, and it sucks to be them. But they could always get them approved and start selling in competition to those that already are approved. But, to recoup the cost of getting them approved they'd probably come out at the same price anyway, so you wouldn't have the situation like those cheapies on the eBay link being as cheap as they are.

Edited by GTSBoy

So why'd you get them??

If you actually do go to the track just make sure you put in some good fluid and it will be fine..it will take you a year of track days before you kill the brakes at least and that's if your a hack or very fast, they should last much longer if you drive clean

Thought Ill give them a shot, im not going to be doing alot of track work, mainly just deca, haunted hills type stuff so I think these will be fine.

Definently will put good fluid in, will also do brake stopper and braided lines.

I'm not sure what the specific concern is about ADR approved brakes lines when the calipers, pads and discs, or how they work as part of a system, are also not ADR approved?

I personally wouldn't trust any brake line from overseas or that isn't adr approved, I guess if its adr approved theres less chance of a failure. I've seen a few jap branded braided lines burst but never a Hel one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...