Jump to content
SAU Community

Structural/serious Rust Removal/treatment

Ericjayrol

By Ericjayrol,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ericjayrol Community Regular

Ericjayrol

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I've got some serious rust issues, I knew they were big but I didn't know exactly how big they were.

My mechanic told me I need to go to some special place that does like chassis repairs and construction or something because apparently its structural and needs to be engineered or something.

Another friend told me that any panel beater can do it, they cut out the rust and then weld a new plate over the spot, but I don't know.

I was wondering if maybe he was overplaying it or something, wondering if you guys had any ideas about how to deal with it or perhaps had any recommendations on what kind of place I need to take it to or an exact place you can recommend?

I don't want some bandaid solution or to cover it up, this isn't about making it pass pink slip or something, I want to do whats right to make the car the best it can be.

img3952kl.jpg

img3953r.jpg

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

I've got the same issue but I think mines much worse. If It's just surface rust then a panel beater should be able to fix it but if it is more serious then you'll have to get some chassis work done.

As Terry said, have a look under the car too as if you can see a little rust up top then there will most likely be more underneath.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...