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Spent a whole weekend on this one - my mates Euro. Got a free unreg N14 Pulsar for my efforts :cool:

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thats great..i did this Audi few weeks back...there wasnt any sun on the day to get a decent shot, it wasnt as bad as that honda was but there was alot of swirling and not alot of depth in the finish...it definately come up better....

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Back to Nissan! Here is a couple of pix from today, my 250 getting some lovin'

Quarter panel after polishing, with a crapload of dust on the bootlid:

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Headlight before and after, same pad and polish as the rest of the car:

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Outside after a coat of Jetseal 109, just before my arms fell off and I gave up for the day. To be continued tomorrow after work...

Outside.jpg

First time I've polished it since owning it, owned it for about 2 months. Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo & Autoglym Deep Shine polish were used. Turned out pretty good for a 1st attempt I think. Will wax it using Autoglym product next time, or any suggestions as to what Wax I should use? Thankspost-109055-0-11566400-1363596703_thumb.jpgpost-109055-0-10217500-1363596763_thumb.jpg

Detailed a Porsche Panamera Turbo.

An Amazing Car. It was a US import and had a lot of fall out on the car and poor maintenance of the paint.

Didnt get any good shots pre detail due to it belting with rain and iphone poor quality.

Process:

Foam Wash

Wheel Treatment

Clay Bar

2.5 Stage Polish

- IP2000 Purple Pad

- IP2000 White Pad

- SF4000 Blue Pad

AMMO Skin Sealant

AMMO Creme

Huge thanks to the guys at RDA for giving me the opertunity to detail such an amazing car. Check out their web site for all your brake needs.

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love your work as always Matt :thumbsup:

I did an old Saab today...I wont lie this thing had amazing duco on it already but it was badly scratched, no doubt from bad washing procedures...

only had a few hours with it unfortunately so a 2 stage polish and wax was all I could do..

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I did have a brief ponder about buying a four door SAAB a couple of months ago before getting the 35. Especially with the prices going low now... but love my Nissans too much

Here is some beadage after a wash today, its wearing a three month old coat of Optimum Spray Wax

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  • 2 weeks later...

Blemishes and swirls on my Ford POS (AU Wagon) front LHS fender

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Waxed with Eagle One Nanowax and then waxed again with Mother cuts and polish and then lightly buffed - overall time took under 30 mins to do.

Edited by Ants

.nah wasnt that....its the wax then cut then polish...seems kind of backwards....looks alright though...:rofl:

Yes that's accurate.

Was still having a dumb moment..... It was a trial and error.

so you're saying you removed the wax with the cut and polish :P

Yeah totally :P Edited by Ants
  • 2 weeks later...

quick pic of my latest assignment....anyone thats detailed one of these will know what a huge job it is...

was all scratched up from auto car washes, I spent a whole day just on paint and wheels, could of easily spent another day too..

I'm pretty happy with the results though

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and at last after about 30 cars later my Concourse 900 buff died ...I'm gunna miss it :(

Arts awesome effort on the 300 they are a HUGE car!!

And even harder in black Great results!

Top work on getting a completed photo as well. Mine were all taken nearing darkness as the car took so long to complete!

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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