Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So today i parked my car in the usual spot at work and did not move it for 9ish hours. I got in my car this afternoon to move it around the back of my work (as i'm storing it in the workshop because we're getting a f*ck load of rain/flood) and all of a sudden my revs drop from 2k to 0 and the car stalls. I naturally thought "What the f*ck?" then i started the car again, drive 10 metres then it cuts again. So now i'm starting to get worried.. started the car again and drove another 15m into the workshop then turned it off.

When i first lost revs i also got a few lights come up from what i remember it was battery and a few others. Popped the bonnet and had a look around checked the belts to see if they were very loose but they were tight and everything else seemed ok. I am really not sure what's happened, we have got a hell of a lot of rain up here in the last 48 hours i'm just wondering if my car has just died because it's been driven 20m in the last 2 days and hasn't warmed up at all since it's been left in the cold the whole time.

Any feedback would be good, hopefully i get in it tomorrow and it starts fine and i have no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418485-strange-experience-today/
Share on other sites

id guess its fuel or air related - something to do with the fuel pump or your intake.

just some ideas:

that stalling sounds very similar to when the fuel pump has no power, it doesnt pressurise the injection manifold, the manifold has enough fuel in there to start and run for a while then eventually dies. but then you shouldnt be able to restart the car afterwards.... which would indicate a possible faulty pump. (or no fuel in the tank)

Or if your MAF sensor plug was disconnected, similar result...

or an inlet leak of some kind could do that.

i'd check the CAI hasnt popped off somewhere between the MAF and the plenum, or maybe a hose connected to the plenum (EGR or crankcase breather)

worst comes to worst, plugging a scantool up should give you a better idea

it will be a crank angle sensor or one of the cam shaft sensors. get it to a diag tool and it will give you the code, then look it up on google it will tell you what sensor it is. happened to me and it was my camshaft left hand side. about a $300 fix all up

I had a similar issue to this a while back, went to take off from the lights a few times then BAM! Felt like the engine died, hazards went on... fail. I checked a few things similar to what was suggested, disconnected the battery, reconnected, seemed to work fine after that :S Not sure if it was 100% the same however.

I would look at the cam/crank sensor too.. a failed fuel pump or air leak will generally cause it to stumble and run horrible for a bit before it stalls.. Check the codes.. it should have stored something if it is a failed Crank/Cam sensor.

Ok so i checked the MAF and intake this morning when i got to work and it all seems tight, started it up and let it get warm. Drove it around same as i did yesterday and had no problems at all. So i guess it's all sweet, if i have the problem again i'll get a scan tool on it.

Thanks for the advice

I think the engine light came on, to be honest i just thought to myself ahhh shit then tried starting the car again i didn't take note of exactly which lights came on. Yes Tony i used the clutch appropriately haha, thanks mate it's fine up here now haven't had rain since yesterday afternoon it's nice and sunny now with a bit of cloud so i reckon it's gone further south. My boss was blocked in this morning had trees down over his driveway and smashed windows from the wind.. got pretty crazy out where he is.

I have a set of Camshaft sensors, ordered from the US last may but took an age to get here and needed the car working to hit the snow fields so took it to Nissan Artarmon and had them replace the fault sensor at nissan pricing.

think they cost around $70 each ill have to double check, but cheaper than from Nissan direct

Cheers

James

Hey James, for future reference which shop did you buy the cam sensors from? Did a bit of a search on the net and couldn't seem to find anywhere. By the way, i drove the car home after work and had no problems at all. Really is a mystery as to what happened, i still think somehow it's because of the cold over the last 3 days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...