Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

4.0 LTR

starting to agree here, was down at power cruise today, i must of saw atleast 3 falcon turbo motors that had been transplanted into imports and a vl.. also with a massive garrett bolted on

My view is that for a 4WD to work properly it needs to make good torqe at very low to mid range revs and who cares about top end .

I also think twin cam heads do bugger all for most engines at very low revs , currently Nissan is having dramas with their V8 contender and not having a two valve head can be a disadvantage in a CR and rev limited engine . I doubt very much that a SOHC RB30 would give anything away to a twin cam one in the rev ranges that a diesel truck would use .

Something to look into is the RB34 that is now available , these are a stroked and slightly bored RB30 and if cubes are everything to you worth considering . You would have to check but I think the rebuilt short motor is something like 5-6G in your lap .

IMO the bigger the engine is the less boost it needs in a turbo app and you get a better more evenly shaped torque delivery curve or maybe plateau .

I would be wary of high rev performance because it can be a little peaky and even road car engine power curves in a significantly heavier truck .

Also high revs is where larger power numbers come from hence the diesels you speak of never have high Kw numbers - because they don't rev .

Anyway provided an RB30 mates to your gearbox and you don't have legal issues its a reasonable plan . Otherwise if your truck doesn't owe you much sell it and find an earlier RB equipt GQ or whatever and go from there .

Lastly , like most car lighter is always better but truck wise they seem to be getting bigger and heavier .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...