Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay about a month ago I bought a 93 r32 gtst type m..

Mods are:

T04e high mount

FMIC

Yellow jacket coil packs

550cc injectors

Walboro in tank fuel pump

Tial waste gate w/screamer

HKS bov (will be putting stock BOV plumbed back shortly)

Mines ECU

Adjustable coilovers

Just want an estimate of kw from the wheels ill be getting? Only a rough estimate obviously. AFTER A TUNE!

Edited by Zrobe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418780-power-to-expect-from-these-mods/
Share on other sites

OK, so the power will be limited by one of three things.

1) The turbo.

2) The injectors.

3) The ECU.

Start with the easy one. Your Mines ECU was a waste of money. It can't be tuned (if the EEPROM has been glued in). If the chip isn't glued in, at least you can convert it to Nistune. But then you can do that with a standard ECU anyway. (And, yes, I assume the Mines ECU was already in there when you bought it and therefore it's not your doing, but nevertheless). Worse, the Mines ECU is not well suited to running in Australia. Intended to run on Japanese 100 octane and tend to be fairly over-advanced. Can ping an engine to death pretty quickly in the wrong circumstances.

The injectors will do no more than 300rwkW, give or take a bit. But that it plenty, and probably a lot more than you'll get out of a TO4e on an RB20 anyway.

I suggest you scan through the RB20 dyno thread and see whether someone else has posted up some results with that engine/turbo combo. The rest of the mod list really doesn't matter except to determine whether the fuel and ignition and so on are good enough for the power level.

OK, so the power will be limited by one of three things.

1) The turbo.

2) The injectors.

3) The ECU.

Start with the easy one. Your Mines ECU was a waste of money. It can't be tuned (if the EEPROM has been glued in). If the chip isn't glued in, at least you can convert it to Nistune. But then you can do that with a standard ECU anyway. (And, yes, I assume the Mines ECU was already in there when you bought it and therefore it's not your doing, but nevertheless). Worse, the Mines ECU is not well suited to running in Australia. Intended to run on Japanese 100 octane and tend to be fairly over-advanced. Can ping an engine to death pretty quickly in the wrong circumstances.

The injectors will do no more than 300rwkW, give or take a bit. But that it plenty, and probably a lot more than you'll get out of a TO4e on an RB20 anyway.

I suggest you scan through the RB20 dyno thread and see whether someone else has posted up some results with that engine/turbo combo. The rest of the mod list really doesn't matter except to determine whether the fuel and ignition and so on are good enough for the power level.

Mines ECU wasn't glued I had a new chip put in. Yeah bit of lag with that turbo haha.. As long as I'm over about 250 260rwkw ill be stoked.

Depending on what spec T04e it actually is - will depend if you'll get there.

There was something like 30 variants, as they are from the 1970s... So lots of wheels/housing combo's around. I think you'll be struggling to get 260rwkw, and it'll be laggy.

Depending on what spec T04e it actually is - will depend if you'll get there.

There was something like 30 variants, as they are from the 1970s... So lots of wheels/housing combo's around. I think you'll be struggling to get 260rwkw, and it'll be laggy.

Yeah I wouldn't have a single clue to what spec it is.. Kicks in at around 3600

I suggest getting rid of the turbo and getting one suited for the 2L motor, then get a nistune or an aftermarket ECU as the mine ECU won't be tunable and will probably ping/do all sorts of weird shit as soon as you start putting any decent boost into it, could even pop the motor if it is highly advanced.

I had a mines ECU in a car I bought about 5 years back, the previous owner had retarded the base timing back as far as it went just to stop it pinging, it also ran so rich that it went off the AFR scale when on full load, below 9:1, basically they are just crap and not suited in anyway for what you have.

there are a thousand T04E variants as stated. not all are bad and plenty of people have had them work without a drama. kicking in at 3600 is fine if thats when it starts to pull hard id be happy.

find out what T04E it is and go from there. hopefully its one of the common ones.

I recommend changing the ECU for a nistune at minimum and you will probably be limited by injectors before anything else.

I suggest getting rid of the turbo and getting one suited for the 2L motor, then get a nistune or an aftermarket ECU as the mine ECU won't be tunable and will probably ping/do all sorts of weird shit as soon as you start putting any decent boost into it, could even pop the motor if it is highly advanced.

I had a mines ECU in a car I bought about 5 years back, the previous owner had retarded the base timing back as far as it went just to stop it pinging, it also ran so rich that it went off the AFR scale when on full load, below 9:1, basically they are just crap and not suited in anyway for what you have.

My tuner said it will be tuned to whatever is in the tank.. i said i didnt think that was possible.. Anyway I'm over talking about my ECU, if my tuner has lied well.. I ain't going back...

there are a thousand T04E variants as stated. not all are bad and plenty of people have had them work without a drama. kicking in at 3600 is fine if thats when it starts to pull hard id be happy.

find out what T04E it is and go from there. hopefully its one of the common ones.

I recommend changing the ECU for a nistune at minimum and you will probably be limited by injectors before anything else.

Lol, is there a way by found out what variant is it WITHOUT pulling it apart? Probably a stupid question but I'm here to learn..

No factory ECU can tune/trim the fuel on the run, which is what he said he has been told... Or perhaps it was bad describing on his behalf.

What about the chip he put in? Can that make a difference to the pinging.. This is f**ked lol

People need to start reading ALL the posts.

OP says Mines ECU chip is not glued in and in fact another chip has been put in there. Therefore it is possible to tune that ECU, either by the shitful 90s method of burning EEPROMS, or by putting in a Nistune board.

/ ECU problem

Turbo still an open issue.

Yeah and read the subsqeuent one where he states it will adjust to whatever fuel is in the tank - that is simply untrue (and this is the part we are talking about).

What about the chip he put in? Can that make a difference to the pinging.. This is f**ked lol

It is a SINGLE tune option. You set it for say 98 octane - it is set for good.

Your current setup does not...

1. Adjust when there is detonation

2. Adjust for other fuel types in the tank

3. Adjust for changes to boost levels

It is a SINGLE tune option. You set it for say 98 octane - it is set for good.

Your current setup does not...

1. Adjust when there is detonation

2. Adjust for other fuel types in the tank

3. Adjust for changes to boost levels

Well I've spoken to him again.. He said its no lie? I'm going to get him explain to me properly how he did it.. I'm only taking his word for it and is a family friend.. So I don't see any point in him lying. I'm just going to punch him in the head if my car pings out lol

Yeah and read the subsqeuent one where he states it will adjust to whatever fuel is in the tank - that is simply untrue (and this is the part we are talking about).

No, you see, I read that as meaning he will tune it to whatever is in the tank. Which is kind of what you have to do, no?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...