Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Robo's
Its interesting that people seem to thinkthe injectors are good for 250rwkw.  I can be done, but how many people have been running 250rwkw on stock rb25 injectors and not needed a rebuild?

I really do think if you are trying to skimp on the cost of mods, you will either end up with a dog, or it will only cost you more in the long run. You get what you pay for.  

but hey, its not my car.

So if the motor is tuned properly with good A/F ratios, how can the injectors make you need a rebuild?

Trust33 : there are plenty of threads on this topic at the moment,

I do not use an oil cooler, but 1 would planned in the near future.

Injectors are good for about 250rwkw. Maybe more or less depending on other mods to your vehicle, such as fuel pressure regulator, aftermarket fuel pump ect..

Just have a read about..

The injectors dont, the lack of fuel does. I know, there is all this theory around how you can run 250+ rwkw with stock injectors - but how many cars have you seen sustain this and keep their ringlands in one piece. My injectors were at 85% with 200rwkw, right on the edge, tuned with 12:1 af ratios. This was on a warm 35deg C day.

Its not just the AF ratios at the time the car is tuned that needs to be considered - what about temperature change or accel enrichment?

Everyone blames the weak ringlands of the RB25, well I am not the only one with over 300rwkw on stock pistons, the ring lands are not that weak.

but like I said, if you think you can do something no one else can, go for it. I am just putting up a word of caution for those who care to consider it. At the end of the day its not my car. I would just like to see evidence when someone says xxx power with stock injectors is no probs. I think without good evidence, its misleading and could result in a very expensive problem.

knore, you may be running only 14 psi, but that means squat. Power is relative to air flow,which is relative to the amount of fuel needed. 14psi boost can mean anything until you get it on a dyno. two turbos with the same boost pressure on different engines can make different power.

The internet is a great place to find information, I just think its also a great place to be lead up the garden path. It is therefore, for me, very important that I see some sort of evidence before I believe what others say, ESPECIALLY when I have seen alot of evidence that says otherwise.

the GCG option is easily the simplest, but not the cheapest if your get a 2nd hand hks turbo, but then obviously its not new! So basically i would only consider a 2nd hand turbo if it was very well priced and in excellent condition..

As far as looking stock is concerned, youd have to look pretty damn close to pick an HKS 25** sitting down there instead of the stocker. Put the heat shield back on and your definitly not gonna tell.

from what i hear the stock fuel pump becomes unreliable at 200rwkw and above.

As far as the stock injectors go, ive been running mine flat chat for just over 5000kms with injector duty constantly between 95 and 100%. I have a reg but the tuner didnt bump up the pressure when he tuned it, as it only reached mid 80's on the dyno... Recipe for disaster, maybe!

Everyone says dont run over 80% efficiency, obviously this is so you have some fueling capability in reserve, but can someone who knows the actual technical reason tell me why if my absolute max peak duty is just under 100%, and AFRS are fine, knock is fine, what is wrong with running such a high duty cycle? do the injectors wear out or something? Is my setup a time bomb in its current high duty-cycle state?

Thanks LEPPERFISH so as i understand it to get the most from std injectors a fuel preassure regulator is needed @ arround 180rwkw and upward to 200rwkw.Where then it would be wise to get a fuel pump @200rwkw and up.ive seen the thread and it states that when an injector is pushed to its limits it can not deliver enough fuel into the chamber in some circumstances and cause detonation @ the 220rwkw power level im aiming @.Im keen to know if feeding it injector cleaner regularly enough will combat this problem

Its interesting that people seem to thinkthe injectors are good for 250rwkw.  I can be done, but how many people have been running 250rwkw on stock rb25 injectors and not needed a rebuild?

I really do think if you are trying to skimp on the cost of mods, you will either end up with a dog, or it will only cost you more in the long run. You get what you pay for.

:werd: I couldnt agree more.

The injectors dont, the lack of fuel does.  I know, there is all this theory around how you can run 250+ rwkw with stock injectors - but how many cars have you seen sustain this and keep their ringlands in one piece.  My injectors were at 85% with 200rwkw, right on the edge, tuned with 12:1 af ratios.  This was on a warm 35deg C day.

Everyone blames the weak ringlands of the RB25, well I am not the only one with over 300rwkw on stock pistons, the ring lands are not that weak.

I am just putting up a word of caution for those who care to consider it.  

The internet is a great place to find information, I just think its also a great place to be lead up the garden path.  It is therefore, for me, very important that I see some sort of evidence before I believe what others say, ESPECIALLY when I have seen alot of evidence that says otherwise.

Double :werd:

My injectors were being pushed at 210rwkw... taking them to 250rwkw is just playing with fire and asking for trouble... and as many here have found, trouble is certainly there waiting for ya.

Dont cut corners, it will only cost you more pain in the end.

We have one on the GTR, one on the GTST and one on the GTT.  But the Stagea is an auto so it gets an SAFC, better than nothing.

Ya, better than nothing, never said it was useless... you just wanted some rice SK :P:P:rant:

Everyone says dont run over 80% efficiency, obviously this is so you have some fueling capability in reserve, but can someone who knows the actual technical reason tell me why if my absolute max peak duty is just under 100%, and AFRS are fine, knock is fine, what is wrong with running such a high duty cycle? do the injectors wear out or something?  Is my setup a time bomb in its current high duty-cycle state?

you have 6 injectors and 6 cylinders - it only takes a lean out in 1 injector to f&*^ your engine?

i draw samples from my wrx experiences. the EJ20 block is layed out with 2 horizontally opposed pistons. the fuel rail runs all the way around the block to feed each cylinder. the drawback of this design is quite apparent - the first cylinder on the fuel rail is always rich, the last cylinder can potentially suffer from fuel starvation.

when you start pushing the limits of the EJ20, the A/F ratios don't tell the full story, and this is when wrx owners should be most wary. the chance of fuel starvation on that last cylinder increases dramatically. ask wrx fans which cylinder is most popular to blow its ringland and it will be cylinder #2 - not coincedentally the last cylinder on the fuel rail.

the solution? they split the fuel rail and run fuel rails down both sides of the block with 2 fuel regulators...my point is, a/f ratios might not tell you the whole truth - be wary of the weakest links...

Most people can do it I think.. Yes the 550cc injectors are cheaper and compatable but as someone here said before, the cheaper option isnt always the best option in the long run.

PM SydneyKid, he's quite knowlogable on the subject, and everything else about Skylines. LOL..

I wouldnt push the stock injectors past 200rwkw mine were in the 90's with a 044 pump at 208rwkw. using a regulator to push them beyond this point may seem like quick fix to get better air fuel ratios but it will force the injectors to give a very poor spray patten. So its not very efficiant in keeping conbustion temps in control but will still give a air fuel ratio that may be the same as if you were to upgrade and this is were people think theres no point in spending the money.

Im also not a big fan of using rotor injectors as they they are said to have unusual spray patterns, but I dont know of any people breking engines like i have herd of many cases with stock injectors reg'd 25's

i would even up the boost on a rb with out doing fuel pump if you have 90000km.. it could fail.. boom! i would do the support mods - fuel pump, fuel reg, intercooler, exhaust, cams if you wish cam gears if you wish too and after that get your turbo and ecu at the same time and tune.. either that or tune it twice if you buy the ecu early in the mod process.. while you have everything else you mite find out the turbo you were going to buy doesnt make the power you want or have the powerband you want. do it right the first time and reap the benifits later

The GCC 450hp Turbo ,, Do you know if they use the STD exhaust housing or a VG30 exhaust housing ... To me it looks like a Standard RB25 exhaust housing and that is why they back cut the turbine wheel ,,,  Hmmm any Ideas SydneyKid  ??

Im also interested to know

looks to me they still use the standard compressor and exhaust housing but machined out to take bigger turbine & compressor wheel..

some sort of T04?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...