Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From what I know a twin turbo is generally setup sequentially - ie one smaller turbo that kicks in sooner, and a bigger turbo that kicks in a bit later... much like the Subaru B4...

a Bi turbo is 2 same size turbos kicking in same time etc.. etc...

Whats better for which application?

The GTR is setup as a Bi-turbo (2 same size turbos kicking in same time)...

Has anyone set it up as a twin-turbo (say a HKS 2530 and a HKS 2540)... is it possible?

Anyone know how it would go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41930-twin-turbo-vs-bi-turbo/
Share on other sites

I know it says Twin Turbo under my bonnet....

Ok i may be wrong, just what i read somewhere about the definitions, can't remmeber where...

Was just interested to know if anyone ran a sequential setup... what the pros/cons are

Maserati are about the only ppl i know of that refer to twin turbos as Bi-turbos. Sequential turbo setups usually have common exhaust housing, and depending on the rpm/load etc a valve switches the flow of exhaust gases between the wheels, or variatons of.

I wouldnt go running a 2530 and a 2540 on an RB26, each fed by 3 cylinders. Have you seen how some aftermarket manifolds using balancing pipes, on a equal size twin setup may not be so critical, on a setup using different turbos it would be critical.

The back pressure would vary between the front 3 to rear 3 cylinders, meaning you would need an ECU like a Motec that could tweak MAPS for individual cylinders, as the scavenging effects of the sets of cylinders would likely vary.

What you are better doing is doing what tractor pulling competitors do and use series turbocharging...which is where the the first smaller compressor pressurises the air into the inlet of the 2nd larger turbo, whilst the exhaust gases are similarily plumbed into one another

Think of turbines on a jet, where they are multi stage compressors... this approach tries to copy that. But again on paper it works better then in practice due to the plumbing requirements, inlet temps etc etc, unless you are using trick fuels, and a tractor engine that due to its low rpm can run massive boost... you get the idea

The advantage of using twins is that you can still have high levels of flow (cfm) from smallish twin turbos, and as the wheels sizes are smaller, lower inertia etc etc can still be responsive despite each only beign fed half the exhaust gases. Then you look at the larger turbo with similar cfm capability as the wheels of the bigger turbo have higher inertia, meaning they need more cfm to spin the buggers... but this is also influenced not just by the size/weight of the wheels but the pitch of the blades/wheel design etc etc.

Basically like all engineering, its a matter of compromises, and seeing which best suits the requirements, withoug impinging on the negatives too much. Just thoughts...

The term Bi-turbo is just a bit of Euro-English...

It is like AWD vs 4WD, they really don't mean anything different. Really.

It is all just marketing. As I recall Mazda called their sequential setup

a Twin-turbo...

The Porsche 959 has an interesting take on the twin-turbo setup.

It had two equal sized turbos but it would only use one of them

(spooled up by the exhaust of all six cylinders) then it would

switch to both of them... Apparently it worked quite well.

I suspect setups such as on the Audi, Maserati and even the GT-R are

more to do with packaging than anything else. On a Vee engine a

turbo on each side just makes sense. Also a long engine like a 6-cyl

ends up with a big mess of pipes as a manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...