Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I need some help!

I'll try shorten the story..

Basically I was playing designated driver in December last year and was on the way home with my girlfriend. About 100meters from my house I got pulled over for an RBT. I had a few drinks during the night but I knew I was well under the limit. So I blow into the breathalyzer and somehow miraculously blew 0.128! I then get told I now have to go to east perth police station to conduct further tests.. My girlfriend was not impressed and obviously I'm shitting myself. Since we were so close to mine I left my car there and my girlfriend just walked to mine while I got a shameful ride to the police station.

Anyway they take me to East Perth station and tell me all the legal info & tell me how drinking driving is bad etc & i'll be arrested for being that far over the limit. So I do the 2nd blood alcohol test (15-20min after my first test) and what would you know I blow 0.000. So after having NFI what was going on it pretty much turns out the machine they was faulty and that was all for nothing.

While I was there they decided to wack me something so they give me a $100 fine because the standard holden fog lights on my car were left on (A genuine mistake as it was still switched to AUTO-ON from a storm we had 2 days before).

About a week after that I had to go overseas for christmas and forgot to pay the $100 fine and wasnt going to be back in perth in time to pay it. I wait for my renewal which I just got and now they just decided to add a demerit point to the infrindgement notice and also charge me the standard late fee!

I called up the infrindgement management number and get some old lady who wouldnt allow me to get a word in for my reasoning & told me its too bad and you need to pay it. I tried calling back to get someone who would be reasonable and listen to my situation but she was the only one who I could get in contact with regarding this. It clearly states on the infrindgement notice that no demerit points were inccured for this.

So after doing absolutely nothing wrong, I got dragged through all of that and get wacked with $113 fine & a demerit point that I shouldnt have. I might add I was very curtious through the whole thing..

Can anyone assist or tell me what are my options? Do I really have to take this to court? I'd prefer not to..

Thanks in advance!

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419547-incorrect-infrindgement-advice/
Share on other sites

Bit odd that you got a demerit point, and unreasonable too I think. The extra $13 I can understand but I would query the demerit point further. Perhaps go down there in person or call again and hope you don't get the same old biddy.

But then again I have a friend who had a written letter from the bureau of meteorology saying that fog existed in the area and time she was booked for having fog lights on, and they still wouldn't budge on it, WA pol are the higher authority on weather..

Op there might be nothing you can do, police usually don't put how many demerit points you get because that's what usually annoys people. There's no requirement for them to inform you as it is the department of transport that handles the demerit points not the police. Out of courtesy they should fill in the box on the infringment.

Nick, you could contest it if you think your gf was justified but it's time consuming and costly...and the police know it.

I've contested drink driving matters and won, the machines aren't accurate all the time despite what the police have you believe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...