Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The power figure is just a number, Mark. It's how/where the thing delivers that this thing should show its worth.

A slightly smaller, earlier spooling unit (vs the well regarded 3076) really should be making the most of things lower in the rev range and putting distance on the bigger units before they get a full head of steam. You'd expect that they are going to blow by in the higher revs.

It would be good for Mafia to comment here, but I do believe the 0.63 IW housing did experience difficulty with boost control and was only happy above 18psi. BHDave also struck similar issues with his 3071. I'd suggest your builder might be looking to avoid that, but reckon this unit may not pose the same problems if so configured.

Either way if this 0.82 setup ended up making 16-18psi by around 3200rpm and the engine continued to make torque up to 7000 without falling over, you'll be on a good thing. 250 is only a number, and if it made 260 on pump 98 I'd think you've got a winner.

Adrian I've driven both 0.63 and 0.82 and 0.87 Pro S equipped GT30 setups. And I've provided comment about relative performances.

Characteristics aren't radically different. Basically the smaller housing provides higher gas speeds earlier, and at least with Mafia's setup also became restrictive earlier so it stopped making torque in the higher rpm range (ie power peaked sooner than the 0.8 sized housing).

The on boost torque curve effectively shifts to the left by 500-750rpm dependent on pipework, attention to smooth transitions, and whether it's on alcohol or water injection. Your 52T 3076 if/when tuned should be on full song from somewhere between 3800-4200 so that should tell you when Mafia's became lively.

For reference purposes - boost graph of a 52T 3076 on an SR with twin scroll .78 hsg. Note that 150kpa is a tad over 21psi - which as you can see is made at around 3750rpm and positive pressure at approx 2300rpm with big Hypertune short runner plenum. At the end of the tune it went on to make 389hhp on BP98 with 240hhp at 4000rpm. Very torquey (for an SR20) and revvy setup. I changed over from a GT3071 on the same setup but with larger dump 3.5 inch up from 3 inch and the 52T 3076 is superior in every way.

I expect it would work equally as well (if not better) on an RB with .5 litre larger capacity in a single scroll format with standard intake manifolding.

Boost307652trim.jpg

3076Dyno.jpg

Edited by juggernaut1

Judging by the thread responses this thread is about a 3067 vs other Garrett variants. I'm only offering my experiences so people can make an informed decision about turbo choice.

Edited by juggernaut1

The power figure is just a number, Mark. It's how/where the thing delivers that this thing should show its worth.

You're absolutely correct of course Dale. I'd be very surprised if I could even tell the difference between 250 or 260 kw driving it. Still, I did set a target for what I was chasing. :)

Time will tell , if the turbine response is adequate then the larger housing will pay off in other areas .

One is exhaust heat and pressure which often leads to detonation . You would think that with a less detonation tolerant fuel like P98 a bit more boost and and a bit less exhaust restriction will make more power .

Assuming the tuners do a good job with the light load low end areas the "torque crossover" of engine only to boosted performance should be acceptable .

Updates for one of ye olde GTX variants.

Some may be interested to know Guilt-toy is back and doing his thing. I saw him today to retune my car for the new setup and am over the moon with the result. I have never met a more approachable and reasonable tuner, and the result speaks for itself. I have driven my car extensively over the last decade (previously owned by a friend) and have driven it from stock and various levels of modded states.

The current setup is as follows:

Forged SR20 (not ported, not anything, just forged)

256 Poncams (non VCT)

GTX3071R

MX performance T3 manifold

38mm gate

Nistune, FiveO 850s, Z32

Homebrew dump and all intake plumbing

Results as follows:

https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/10492077_10152228519029211_1017884650130421043_n.jpg

https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/l/t1.0-9/10485661_10152228519059211_2427511659465411306_n.jpg

Updates for one of ye olde GTX variants.

Some may be interested to know Guilt-toy is back and doing his thing. I saw him today to retune my car for the new setup and am over the moon with the result. I have never met a more approachable and reasonable tuner, and the result speaks for itself. I have driven my car extensively over the last decade (previously owned by a friend) and have driven it from stock and various levels of modded states.

The current setup is as follows:

Forged SR20 (not ported, not anything, just forged)

256 Poncams (non VCT)

GTX3071R

MX performance T3 manifold

38mm gate

Nistune, FiveO 850s, Z32

Homebrew dump and all intake plumbing

Results as follows:

10492077_10152228519029211_1017884650130
10485661_10152228519059211_2427511659465

Congrats, again sir :D That has to be a fun drive :)

Seeing as GTScoTT hasn't responded yet, I happen to know it's on 98 - get it drunk, boy.

Mr Lith has it covered. Just chilling on 98 for the moment, at least until its a little more readily available.

Am very happy with it. I was a little tired last night and didn't quite finish what I was trying to say:

I have driven my car extensively over the last decade (previously owned by a friend) and have driven it from stock and various levels of modded states. The car has never been this good. It is way more responsive than I'd ever imagined it would be and so far has given no shortage of awe for anyone that has passengered. Most friends specifically comment to say that it feels like any other turbo car until you give it a boot full. It honestly was not this smooth or potent when it was stock.

Nice :D Glad someone has had good results, even though it's not really what the thread is about - here's hoping m@&k's luck changes, seems like another "pick up date" has come and gone past like the wind :(

To be fair, I think it's a very effective setup but I'm not sure when I missed an engine with upgraded internals (including cams), aftermarket exhaust manifold/wastegate etc running 22+psi became mild!!! :D But yes, that thing is clearly going to be a weapon.

Results look great Scott. What engine speed does 100kph correspond to on the Silvia? Around 3,800? Was impressed with how quickly it built boost in the vid you posted as well.

Yes Lith, pick up date has slipped again, but looks like only by a day. Received a quick email late last night saying it had come back from the tuner yesterday afternoon. In Josh's words: "drove it this afternoon, really loving how the power is coming on". They're giving it a check over today to make sure it's ready for pick up. I'm hoping to be able to get it after work today.

To be fair, I think it's a very effective setup but I'm not sure when I missed an engine with upgraded internals (including cams), aftermarket exhaust manifold/wastegate etc running 22+psi became mild!!! :D But yes, that thing is clearly going to be a weapon.

Your confused with stock-ish ;)

Edited by juggernaut1

@ Mark - here was my previous GT3071 setup revved to 8,000rpm so 4,000rpm would be around 112klms

Cheers, I wasn't too far off then. Looks like Scott's GTX3071 has similar boost threshold / spool characteristics as the GT3071? Although I guess not really comparable on different engines...

Edit: I realise they're both SR20s, just they've been built differenty.

Awesome - sounds promising, have you got a number yet... or are you wanting to check it all out before you report? :) Either way, glad it's done finally!

No numbers as yet. Might have to wait until I pick it up. Unfortunately, it's pissing down rain here today. Won't be able to go for a decent drive for a couple of days probably...

Edited by M@&k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...