Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

@ Mark - here was my previous GT3071 setup revved to 8,000rpm so 4,000rpm would be around 112klms

Dyno11.jpg

Did the S15 have a 5 speed box in it?

If the gearing etc is the same that makes GTScoTT's GTX3071R capable of 20psi < 4000rpm - which is really quite impressive :)

Just picked up the car. Haven't had a chance to go for a proper drive yet, but here's the dyno plot:

post-83859-0-80387900-1404295174_thumb.jpg

Boost is both lower and later than I was expecting. I got the impression talking to Josh that they didn't quite solve the boost issue they were having. He mentioned potentially using a different rated actuator spring to improve things (currently 10psi).

Very happy with the quality of the install they've done though. They really took the effort to keep the stock / black theme, and using quality fittings for things like BOV return. Can post up pics if anyone is interested.

Hmm it's strange that it's coming on that late, looking at the curve it doesn't look to be a boost control thing to me. You are running Nistune? Is VCT being used?

That boost curve doesn't look like it is necessarily using the full potential of the turbo but as you mentioned, good chance the actuator is making it impossible to go any further. It's decent power for the boost through, I reckon - and while in the range of what seemed doable there could be a bit more in it with a stiffer actuator.

Let us know how it drives when you get more of a chance! Be interested in how quickly and easily it comes on, the curve makes it look no better than my old GT3076R which doesn't really make sense, I am assuming there is more than meets he eye going on there.

Also for sh!ts and giggles, here's comparison with previous stock turbo (just with exhaust, pod and tune).

post-83859-0-94056400-1404296609_thumb.jpg

When I get a chance will take some photos of install (looks very neat), and hopefully can feedback on driving impressions.

Also for sh!ts and giggles, here's comparison with previous stock turbo (just with exhaust, pod and tune).

When I get a chance will take some photos of install (looks very neat), and hopefully can feedback on driving impressions.

That comparison looks a heap better when comparing apples for apples. So is your Nistune setup running VCT? If that's not with VCT and there is more boost available then the result starts seeming a lot more understandable. Driving (ie, response) should give a fair bit more of an impression of how well it works :)

Thanks for keeping us updated through it all!

I have the Z32 ECU with Nistune so should still have VCT.

Aiming to get a decent drive in on the weekend, but power does feel great when it comes on. But impossible for me to gauge how it is compared to other setups except stock.

OK, interesting.

When you drove it did it feel conspiciously laggier than the stock turbo? A typical "full boost at 3750rpm" combo would feel very noticeable. Maybe we should just let you get the weekend and have a proper go? :D

Perth dyno's always read lower :whistling:

Yep just throw more boost into it once the control issue is sorted.....as it one thing the GTX's seem to thrive on.

Please post up pics.

Edited by juggernaut1

I thought the z32 ecu needs an additional window switch to control the vct.

Mat only very recently added vct control to the z32 ecu's. I would look into whet you actually have it or not.

A quick way would be disconnect vct plug and go for a drive. If it's the same you need to get it working.

Contact matt at nistune about the update.

  • Like 1

Yep. I got z32 and r32 confused!

Still worth checking as I mentioned.

Sounds easy enough to check. I assume it won't hurt anything if unplugged?

Lith, it definitely feels laggier than stock turbo. Need to get out on the weekend when less traffic around so I can try and get a better feel of when boost builds. I will say though that it feels like it ramps up real quick, whereas on dyno plot looks like more of a gentle increase.

Josh did mention that PZP's dyno tends to read low, but I'm not going to put any stock in that unless I can confirm somewhere else.

Can I also get some advice from you guys? I was told that to make use of higher boost, I really needed to look into freeing up flow more (cams, cam gears, and possibly freer exhaust). I was told the turbo actually has quite a bit more to give seeing as GTX series like higher boost, but couldn't get there without these changes. Does that sound right?

Definitely won't damage anything driving with the vct plug unplugged.

I wouldn't think cams are the best use of money at this stage.

Cam gears perhaps, but the dyno time to dial them in might not be worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...