Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea M35 Engine Light On = Low Power

m8e

By m8e,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

m8e Rookie

m8e

Posted
Posted

Hey groovers,

I bought a M35 Stagea Axis 2003 last year, mostly thanks to time spent lurking on this forum ;)

Anywayz... I have an issue I was hoping you might help me get closer to diagnosing.

The engine light comes on sometimes, and the car gets low power when this happens (crap accelleration with total max speed 40km/h)

Normally turning the engine off and restarting it does the trick, the light goes off and back to full power again.

Although sometimes it takes 4 or 5 restarts of the engine, (not good for my starter motor!)

The car then runs beautifully for days at a time, then I get the engine light issue a couple of times in a day.

The engine light more often comes on at first starting the engine.

But also, sometimes it happens while driving, at low revs (can be cruising in traffic at 50km/h then notice no power to accellerate and it's the engine light has come on, so drop gear back into neutral and turn motor off and restart a few times until light goes off)

It seems to help reset the engine light problem if I give the accellerator some extra gas when turning on the ignition.

If I dont give it extra gas when cranking the ignition, then it takes many more restarts until the engine light goes off (i.e. back to normal engine power again)

I called a Nissan performance mechanic in Melbourne and described the problem, but the guy I spoke to hadn't heard of this specific problem and wanted me to book the car in so he could run it on the dyno for testing.

I am cash strapped at the moment so can't afford a big amount of diagnostics and repair bills at this point

But thought I would post here just in case it sounds like some obvious specific part to be replaced (if someone's heard of this problem before)

At least then I might know what my target saving goal is before I take it in for repair$.

I'm pretty sparse on the mechanic side of things, but my guess is it's not getting enough fuel into the turbo?

Thanks for any comments and suggestions!!! :cheers:

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

The engine light means that the ecu has logged the error/ diagnostic code.

it is as simple as getting that code read, and replacing the offending article. Scotty should be able to read the code for you, he'll see this soon. He's in melb.

It will be either AFM, or one of the crank or cam angle sensors. The code will tell you which one.

Having the car on a dyno is ridiculous, so I suggest never setting foot in that shop again.

ClassOne Enthusiast

ClassOne

Posted
Posted

In the end of the day, a mech shop is not going to diagnose something over the phone, they want you in their shop so they make some cash off you.

Dyno? Is he serious? Unless you didn't tell him it was factory management?

But as mentioned above, run the diagnostic, get the fault code, replace the relevant sensor.

Car will be back to normal.

Just so you know fuel doesn't go into a turbo.. Unless you have anti lag installed ... That would be interesting.

Good luck.

m8e Rookie

m8e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In the end of the day, a mech shop is not going to diagnose something over the phone, they want you in their shop so they make some cash off you.

Yeah I don't think he was really actually listening that closely to me, he just seemed wanted to book me in

I've read good things about that shop on the forum here, and I probably will go there for a proper tune one day as they are close by

But as mentioned above, run the diagnostic, get the fault code, replace the relevant sensor.

Car will be back to normal.

sounds awesome :)

Just so you know fuel doesn't go into a turbo.. Unless you have anti lag installed ... That would be interesting.

LOL yeah what a dork I am sometimes.... exhaust!

I guess I was trying to describe what it "feels" like when the light comes on.

No turbo. No power. Car feels like it is running in limp mode until restarted.

m8e Rookie

m8e

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The engine light means that the ecu has logged the error/ diagnostic code.

it is as simple as getting that code read, and replacing the offending article. Scotty should be able to read the code for you, he'll see this soon. He's in melb.

It will be either AFM, or one of the crank or cam angle sensors. The code will tell you which one.

Awesome!

Hey Scotty if you're reading this I'm happy to drive wherever in Melb. I'm based at South Melbourne. Let me know the regular fees / deal for diagnostic, can PM me if u like.

It would be a relief to get some certainty about knowing what is the problem actually is.

Having the car on a dyno is ridiculous, so I suggest never setting foot in that shop again.

LOL yeah it did seem way off base. Car should at least be running normally before going in for performance tuning eh?

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Hey Mick I will reply to your PM shortly.

It definitely sounds like limp mode, and seeing as the car still runs I doubt it's the cam/crank sensors, perhaps another throttle TPS issue? They have been common lately. The Consult will give us a better idea of what's happening. Speak to you soon.

ClassOne Enthusiast

ClassOne

Posted
Posted

Your car doesn't need a tune up, there isn't such thing with factory management, it is not tunable.

Don't be fooled, all you can do is keep it well maintained in the servicing department and save yourself some money on that "tune up"

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...