Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Been 10 years in the making but have finally taken ownership of a prestige condition 2001 R34 GTR Vspec 2 in Bayside Blue. This has been one of my all time dream cars! Have been in the car scene for over 15 years, starting with a 81 Pulsar, to a Honda Civic show car, to drift weapon 180sx, to a pimped s2000, to a balls to the wall 310kws Evo and finally to the GTR!! So let the build begin!

Vehicle:

2001 Nissan Skyline GTR V-Spec 2 in Bayside Blue

Engine:

RB26DETT

Current Mods:

Apexi Power FC

HKS 120mm Intercooler

HKS Piping

HKS Dump pipes

HKS Front pipes

HKS Cat back "Silent Power" Exhaust

HKS EVS Boost controller

Trust BOV's

Aftermarket 2 way Rear Diff.

Current power 262kws @ the wheels (about to be retuned)

Future Engine Mods:

Powertune Forged Short Block

T04z 0.86 or PTE 6766 Turbo

Camtech 272 degree cams with titanium retainers and springs

Tomei-Ti Expreme Titanium Exhaust

Twin Bosch 044 in tank fuel pumps

Haltech Platinum Pro with E-Flex sensor

2000 cc Injectors

Possible Head work including porting and polishing etc

Goal is to get 450-470kws @ 30psi on E85 with this setup with a few extra things.

Future Body Styling/Suspension:

TBA

Pics up soon!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420020-and-it-begins-2001-r34-gtr-vspec-ii/
Share on other sites

Sounds sweet but ull need a bigger exhaust than the tomei system. Will need full 4" exhaust for over 400kw

Have to agree. Tomie Ti is only 3.5inches. For your power output it will be restrictive. Is this a a streeter or mainly racing use?

If predominantly racing use do away with the cat and get more exhaust flow.

BTW nice car.

Sweet, cheers guys. Is there any 4" titanium on the market?

Also missed in the above mods will be getting the following:

Quickspool Custom High Mount Steam Pipe Manifold

50mm External Gate (Brand yet to be decided)

Adjustable Cam Gears

Tomei Baffles and Oil restrictors

N1 Oil Pump

ARP Head Studs

And a few other things as they become needed.

Pads and rotors will also be upgraded when the time comes.

I will be working on stages with this new project starting with cosmetic/suspension and wheels then working my way to the engine build.

Here is a few pics. Plates have now been changed to personalized QLD plates.

gtr1.jpg

481086_10151231888047396_790758148_n.jpg

Have to agree. Tomie Ti is only 3.5inches. For your power output it will be restrictive. Is this a a streeter or mainly racing use?

If predominantly racing use do away with the cat and get more exhaust flow.

BTW nice car.

Cheers Ants, Car will be a Sunday driver/time attack. How restrictive is a highflow cat at that power range?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...