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Hey guys, I have the following parts for sale in sydney:

1. R33 Skyline Gts-t rb25det engine - only ~120,000km on the clock when I removed it from the car. It was in great running condition and had great compression across all cylinders - approx 150-155 psi. It's had the timing belt replaced about 2 years ago by Unique Autosports

it's out of the car now so ready for pickup or I can ship it anywhere in Oz. As a long motor (no turbo, coilpacks, accessories or loom) i'm after $1k ono

post-35556-0-50986100-1361537521_thumb.jpg

2. R33 Skyline Gts-t 5-speed manual gearbox. From the above car, only ~120,000km. Well looked after by previous owner, ran well in the car, no noises or crunching. - $1250 firm

near new Exedy HD clutch, recently machined flywheel, tailshaft, slave cylinder, master cylinder, etc also available, or whole manual conversion kit if you're keen

post-35556-0-68959100-1361537546_thumb.jpg

3. R33 Skyline rb25det S2 (with no ignitor) Splitfire coilpacks (SF-DIS-005). All in great working condition. Good upgrade to replace busted standard coils - $400

post-35556-0-13024500-1361537567_thumb.jpg

Hi Mate interested in the motor, ( you sold me one and some parts a few years ago , want one for my sons) can you pm mobile to talk

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    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
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