Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know it aint much but I'm only saving bits at a time and just getting into modding it.

I know with this amount I could get a FMIC

OR I could get a power fc w/ tune.

My current mods are

R33 Series 1

3" exhaust

turbosmart dual stage boost controller (7psi and 12psi)

turbosmart bov

the car has done 110,000

what would u suggest with this small amount of money, I'm leaning towards the powerfc just to get my fuel consumption down! i'm only getting about 320-340 kms out of a full tank and thats drving like a grandma.

if you can suggest other mods that would be better in this price range or as a starting point that would be great.

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42053-what-to-do-with-1500/
Share on other sites

For 1500 you will get a PowerFC and hand controller. What you wont get is a good tune. If you buy the PowerFC, start saving again for the tune which is $450+.
I was thinking that with $200 left over (P/FC's are going for around $1,300) then selling the stock ECU should basically fund the tune.

definately recommend the Front mount for the following reasons.

By dropping the intake temps you will be better protecting the engine (cooler intake temps = less prone to detonation), and gaining power at the same time.

The stock intercooler is not a very nice thing. Especially when you start upping the boost, showing pretty huge pressure drop. This means the turbo has to work pretty hard. horsepowerinabox have published test results wich show up to 7psi pressure drop on the stock cooler. If you have 12 psi at the plenum, your turbo will be pushing 19psi at the outlet. The stock turbos dont like boosting too hard, and doing so can cause the exhaust wheel to seperate from the shaft. A good cooler will mean you protecting the turbo too.

Protect things before you start pushing. A tune for $200 probably wont be too good. For a good tune expect to pay around $500 up.

There are people on here that get good power with the stock ecu, up to 200rwkw, so dont immediately believe you will get better results from a power fc than a good cooler.

Good luck

Whats a good intercooler for that type of money?

I notice on ebay there are some for $850 with piping 600x300x76. Probably dodgy tho?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...2479801725&rd=1

I messaged the guy and he said they were for gtst's

then again i could get a genuine hybrid with piping for about $1200

200-250rwkw is probably my aim down the track, what sorta mods would i be looking at for that?

Whats a good intercooler for that type of money?

I notice on ebay there are some for $850 with piping 600x300x76. Probably dodgy tho?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...2479801725&rd=1

I messaged the guy and he said they were for gtst's

then again i could get a genuine hybrid with piping for about $1200

200-250rwkw is probably my aim down the track, what sorta mods would i be looking at for that?

$850 Thats a very cheep intercooler kit. Id like to know more about them. If you got that intercooler you would be able to afford a SAFC as well. Not as good as power FC but it would still help your fuel ecconomy.

munna, i emailed one of the people who had previously brought this kit and they said that they got all the parts needed and it looked good. He hadn't had any tests done on it tho.

I emailed the guy who is selling them and he said they are very similar to a hybrid and are capable up to 500HP

i have a hybrid fmic kit on my 33gts. payed $1200 which i thought was a bargin for a full polished bar and plate anitercooler and polished piping. They say they are good for up to 800hp with only a .2 psi boost drop through the cooler. As steve said i would recomend getting a cooler kit before a pfc

im dont have alot of knowlege on th SAFCII but id say it would be able able to get close to that figure on standard turbo. prob more around 180 - 190.

im runnig a wolf 3d but it is yet to be dyno tuned but am hoping for around 200 or close to it. I use to have an rb20 in a VL commodore with wolf 3d so i took the map from that and downloaded it to my new wolf and just changed a few things, knocked back timing and bit more fuel seams to go better then my old VL. Just trying to save for a final dyno tune

Front mounts are easy as to install... The hardest part would be trimming the front bar to fit the cooler.

I have added an FMIC and a PFC to my car. I think that the PFC is the better mod. Gave me a much better power curve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...