Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turns out I was low on Glycol, and I overfilled my reservoir. So when the turbo gets warm it boils and over flows the tank(Worse when I was running BP98). Since I reduced the tank level back to where it's supposed to be, replaced the coolant and purged the system it has been stable(touch wood)

I understand how air pockets in the system would cause timing drift...would also cause incorrect mixtures in open loop. The thing is every ECU suffers from the same fate. "Incorrect data input causes incorrect data out"

Will it need head studs, pistons, trans replaced at some stage....yes I expect so. Am I trying to kill it, of course not, Am I trying to make as much power as I can-yes, Am I being reckless because I bought it with a blown turbo cheap-no

If you want to poo poo the EMU to support your link development, the biggest problem with EMU is injector timing. A stand alone will make more power, cleaner exhaust(less fuel smoke) and be better on fuel.

Shift timing is effected from the EMU boost cut clamp, the Shift kit doesn't really help the problem as the TCU try's to bring the shift points back in line with the Target MAP vs load input on the CAN line. If the Link will interface with the TCU CAN it will certainly help keep the trans alive. A TCU reprogram would also be a valuable investment

Edited by BoostdR
  • Like 1

How's this..

I emailed Nistune Developments about the M35 and AFM failure frequencies here.

No one there ever heard of AFMs blowing up due to modifying and/or tuning, nor of M35 issues.

They thinks it's a design fault somewhere and sounds like it could be getting more voltage than it needs through it's power supply.

Suggested regulating the power source or try a GTR AFM..

Anyway worth a try.

If you want to poo poo the EMU to support your link development

A few EMU fitted cars have thrown rods recently... I knew about the timing issues when I installed mine and installed the Fcon as soon as I could. No need for me to 'poo poo' the EMU, every tuner I speak to does that without me saying a word, hence why no-one will tune it these days. Good on you for trying to develop it further, but the only reason I was installing them is, there was no other option.

A little support with our M35 Link development wouldn't go astray, it isn't about selling a heap of units, it's about getting a decent tuning option for those few of us pushing the limits. I know we will struggle to sell enough to recoup even a small part of the costs involved, and there are plenty of headaches with it still to address.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...