Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm half way through fitting a front mount and am wondering g what to do with the washer bottle set up in the front right corner. The piping will foul it. Do I mount it else where or ditch it?

Thats one of the reasons people tend to buy return flow coolers so it uses the stock pipes in the engine bay.

I did it becuase i went high mount and FFP.... Ill have to locate the washer bottle on the passenger side as the oil cooler has taken up the rest of the space where the washer bottle was....

next problem?

where to run the boost line? if thats what it is?

the stock pipe that feeds into the intake had a nipple but nothing on the new one.

where do i fit it?

do i put a barb into the silicone joiner from the cold side where it meets the stock intake pipe?

i know this a noob question but i gota learn some how

cheers

yes i saw ur post. the original nipple was on the cold side near the intake pipe.

thats why i asked.

so would it be better to move it to the hot side near the compressor outlet or just put ib back where the original was?

got it finished... yew!

next time i will spend the dollars on a proper r34 kit, there were endless issues with the piping.

i replaced all the silicone joiners that were supplied as they were all to short or the wrong angle.

car has never driven so nice, its amazing how much more response it has with the FMIC and 3" turbo back exhaust.

cheers boys

Why do all piping kits come in 3 piece only? Does anyone know of an RB25 kit that has the turbo to intercooler pipe included?

89CAL that is a very nice setup you have. Good well done :)

The hot side pipe that comes of the turbo compressor and fits onto the 'cooler, I understand that there is only one hot side pipe that goes half way.

So basically what I am after is a inter cooler piping kit that goes from throttle body to turbo. I am running a GT3037S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...