Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all I have had a leaky manifold when it was cold for a while and because i never got it sorted and till it got worse it has warped the manifold from the heat slightly leaving a very annoying ticking hot or cold now. I was weighing up my options and i plan on going for my power in the near future so im thinking of upgrading to a manifold that would be able to fit a bigger turbo. My std turbo is in perfect condish and it pumps out over 200KW at the wheels on a rb25 but i do have the power bug :/ But the thing that stops all these things is money. So really im looking at opinions on what to do

-Pull manifold off and get machined, just to probably remove in near future and swear, cut knuckles etc

-Buy top mount or whatever manifold and upgrade. Will make changing turbos a sinch as well which is a bonus. But will need other exhaust related items.

Help appreciated

The dump pipe plus cooler piping and all lines has to be changed once switched to a high mount manifold as every thing attached to the turbocharger will be sitting upside down. Probably want to get that turbo high flowed or get aftermarket power upgrade options if you are going that direction.

Just replace the stock manifold unless you are ready to sink 10k into a setup thats actually worth your time.

It adds up quick in the long run, and nothing you could do wont need an ecu, injectors and tuning at minimum (3k). proper manifold and turbo setup will cost close to 5k, by the time your supporting mods are also sorted your way over 10.

High mounting the stock turbo will need all new pipes and lines, even if you did it using cheap chinese manifolds and bits, and kept the stock ecu etc, i still see it costing up to the 3k mark again.

Very long story short: if all of the above is not your plan and you just were thinking about upgrading coz the manifold shat itself.. replace the stock manifold and use the money for other things.

Cheers for the offer but unfortunately live in SA. Is it worth a cheap aftermarket manifold (low mount)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOG-LOW-MOUNT-EXHAUST-T3-MANIFOLD-SKYLINE-STAGEA-CEFIRO-RB20-RB25-R32-R33-R34-/181092256564?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a29f08b34&_uhb=1#ht_659wt_1037

Something like that ? is there any gains to be had ?

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...