Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not the best with the electrical side of things but sounds like you should get a new relay and try that they're only $15-$20 for a 30amp horn relay. It should be normally open which means no circuit until the switching wire(from the ECU) triggers it to form the circuit. hook it up the way it's been explained and that'll tell you whether thats the problem. It's now a process of elimintaion so write a list of things to check and cross each one off when you've checked it.

this is what I did in my skyline

scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect

run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30

pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery)

pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect)

pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection

negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay

this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

Ok cheers for the info, sounds like this is the way to go. Fingers crossed it solves my problem... cars huh :P

and when you get the relay ask for a wiring harness for it makes it a lot easier it cost me about $50 all up including a new soldering iron. car are a love and hate relationship

this is what I did in my skyline

scrap all the standard fuel pump wiring and start from scratch go to jaycar (car electronics place) get a 5 pin horn relay, 30amp in line fuse, 25amp positive and negative wire(black and red I only needed a meter of each my battery is in the boot you'll need maybe 5or6 red cable and a meter black) and just tools for the job solder and iron ect

run a wire (25amp red) from the battery (positive) and put the inline 30amp fuse along the way somewhere then conect this wire to pin 30

pin 85 earth out to the body(or negitive on the battery)

pin 86 conect to an ignition only source (key barell, head deck ect)

pin 87 straight to fuel pump positive connection

negitive connection on pump you can ground it out to same place as the relay

this is basically the setup I'm running with a walbro and 2 044 they switch and run beautiful hope this helps

yeah thats what im thinking...just hardwire it from scratch...

Correct me if im wrong BUT doesnt blue smoke generally indicate the engine burning excessive oil or oil entering your exhaust e.g blown turbo

Correct.. being second hand I have no idea what condition the turbo/engine is in.. is on the cards to inspect inside

Edited by GTS 221

that's the love of cars mate you need to research look up stuff on google go to the local mechanic shop ask questions. I'm a bricklayer by trade and now try to go everything on my cars even tort myself to aliminium weld to get stuff done. my advise try it yourself if you stuff up you will learn by your mistakes

A quick check of the Commo wiring diagram shows its fuel pump relay is a positive trigger from the ecu, Skyline (pin 18) is negative.

Multi meter will soon sort out the problem and another relay.

Commo also has the oil pressure switch fuel pump safety cut out, so that circuitry should also be investigated.

If you want a legal and safe conversion, you never run a fuel pump without some sort of safety cut out.

85 connect to ign 12v switched

86 connect to pin 18 on the ECU header or ECU fuel pump output

30 is a fused power supply from the battery

87 is wired to the positive side of the pump

This is the correct safe way of doing it.

Edited by RRob

Correct.. being second hand I have no idea what condition the turbo/engine is in.. is on the cards to inspect inside

Are you from Melbourne/did you buy the original RB/VP from a guy from Sydney? If so the car belonged to someone I knew, and wasn't treated very best. Ran on 5 cylinders a lot (bad AFM), never serviced, etc. After the car was written off, he did a few burnouts on the lawn (cold motor). Not trying to upset anyone, but yeah. Worth putting new rings and bearings in at least.

And for the haters - fantastic sleeper. Boring white VP commodore combined with ZUTUTU. I wouldn't do it myself, but it sorta opened my eyes...

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...