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Hey guys im just wondering what is the maximum safe boost level for a r32 gtst. I just bought a r32 its got a few mods like 3inch exsurst, walbro fuel pump, hks filter and apparently a high flow turbo but it looks stock without taking it out. Without a boost controller its spooling up to 0.8bar or 12psi its running a little ruff and smells really fumey.

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Stock boost is 10 psi. 12 psi is easy with just a big exhaust (and possibly a bigger intercooler to reduce restriction). No boost controller needed.

So, whether or not there is a high flowed turbo on it, it could easily be running 12 psi with no further mods needed. The ECU will be perfectly fine, no emo R&R business going on, because it's an R32, not one of those stupid R33 ECUs. But it will almost certainly be running quite rich, because the stock maps are very rich at elevated boost levels, and it is quite possible that the ratty old coilpacks are not handling things real well. So it's not surprising that it might smell a bit fuelly.

Oh, and given that it has a big fuel pump on it, it will almost certainly be running a lot richer at high load&rev than it normally would. The original fuel pump would not be able to to maintain full pressure at really high flows, so pressure starts to fall off. Mixtures lean out. ECU is running in open loop, so is just working off the maps. Everything is good. Bang in a big fuel pump and the pressure stays high up top and the mixtures get richer.

Cool cheers for that info. It really dosnt like to idle cold it wants to stall one minute the rev at 2 grand the next till its warm. I replaced the tps and am about to do a service on it. There something wrong with the motor just not sure what it is.

I ran a stock m35 Stagea ceramic turbo up to 19psi on e85, I ran it like that for 5 months while I got the parts together for the GTX. Either Nissan started making the ceramic wheels stronger, or it is the age of the turbo that makes it fail quicker. (heat cycles and old worn rear bearings)

Theres a blowoff valve on there but I blocked the hose to it because the blowoff vavle was leaking (its really old and shity looking ). Is there a way of actualy telling whether it is a high flow turbo with out taking it off. Do the stock ones have a stamp on them at all to look for

I ran a stock m35 Stagea ceramic turbo up to 19psi on e85, I ran it like that for 5 months while I got the parts together for the GTX. Either Nissan started making the ceramic wheels stronger, or it is the age of the turbo that makes it fail quicker. (heat cycles and old worn rear bearings)

There's all sorts of different bell curves associated with these things. Some will die at stock boost. Some will last only a short time at high boost. Some will last a long time at the sensible limit boost (whatever that may be for a given turbo type and engine). Some will last a long time at really high boost. Manufacturing tolerances, age, past treatment, etc etc etc. They all stack up.

My RB20 turbo ran at 17 psi for quite a while, then I backed it down to 14 psi and it ran like that for 10 years. A mate's died at 12 psi a month after he put the exhaust on (and the boost went up as a result).

Theres a blowoff valve on there but I blocked the hose to it because the blowoff vavle was leaking (its really old and shity looking ). Is there a way of actualy telling whether it is a high flow turbo with out taking it off. Do the stock ones have a stamp on them at all to look for

there's a start, put the stock one back on if you're running an AFM with a stock ECU... and to answer your question not really, I would just pull off the intake and see if the comp housing has been machined

It had a microtech on it when I got it. It ran like shit and didnt aant to start so I checked the computer and it was all corroded so I put a standard one on and now it starts but dosnt want to idle cold at all I have to sit there and

Keep it from stalling till its warm. But even then if I turn the aircon on it will die start away. I will have to buy a new blowoff vavle and do a minor service to it and see if thers is any difference

You might have larger injectors running on a stock ECU, all makes sense now.. the car had a high flow turbo, an aftermarket ECU, so most likely it has larger injectors to compliment the rest of the setup.

I would see what size injectors they are, if they're bigger either you install the stock ones OR get another aftermarket ECU, rescale the injectors to suit then bring it to a tuner.

ummmmmmmmms.... can't remember on the top of my head what RB20DET injectors look like, but they could also be 440cc GT-R injectors.

Can you trace the wires back to a resistor pack like so:

post-46-1171324843.jpg

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