Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im just wondering what is the maximum safe boost level for a r32 gtst. I just bought a r32 its got a few mods like 3inch exsurst, walbro fuel pump, hks filter and apparently a high flow turbo but it looks stock without taking it out. Without a boost controller its spooling up to 0.8bar or 12psi its running a little ruff and smells really fumey.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421467-maximum-stock-psi-for-r32/
Share on other sites

Stock boost is 10 psi. 12 psi is easy with just a big exhaust (and possibly a bigger intercooler to reduce restriction). No boost controller needed.

So, whether or not there is a high flowed turbo on it, it could easily be running 12 psi with no further mods needed. The ECU will be perfectly fine, no emo R&R business going on, because it's an R32, not one of those stupid R33 ECUs. But it will almost certainly be running quite rich, because the stock maps are very rich at elevated boost levels, and it is quite possible that the ratty old coilpacks are not handling things real well. So it's not surprising that it might smell a bit fuelly.

Oh, and given that it has a big fuel pump on it, it will almost certainly be running a lot richer at high load&rev than it normally would. The original fuel pump would not be able to to maintain full pressure at really high flows, so pressure starts to fall off. Mixtures lean out. ECU is running in open loop, so is just working off the maps. Everything is good. Bang in a big fuel pump and the pressure stays high up top and the mixtures get richer.

Cool cheers for that info. It really dosnt like to idle cold it wants to stall one minute the rev at 2 grand the next till its warm. I replaced the tps and am about to do a service on it. There something wrong with the motor just not sure what it is.

I ran a stock m35 Stagea ceramic turbo up to 19psi on e85, I ran it like that for 5 months while I got the parts together for the GTX. Either Nissan started making the ceramic wheels stronger, or it is the age of the turbo that makes it fail quicker. (heat cycles and old worn rear bearings)

Theres a blowoff valve on there but I blocked the hose to it because the blowoff vavle was leaking (its really old and shity looking ). Is there a way of actualy telling whether it is a high flow turbo with out taking it off. Do the stock ones have a stamp on them at all to look for

I ran a stock m35 Stagea ceramic turbo up to 19psi on e85, I ran it like that for 5 months while I got the parts together for the GTX. Either Nissan started making the ceramic wheels stronger, or it is the age of the turbo that makes it fail quicker. (heat cycles and old worn rear bearings)

There's all sorts of different bell curves associated with these things. Some will die at stock boost. Some will last only a short time at high boost. Some will last a long time at the sensible limit boost (whatever that may be for a given turbo type and engine). Some will last a long time at really high boost. Manufacturing tolerances, age, past treatment, etc etc etc. They all stack up.

My RB20 turbo ran at 17 psi for quite a while, then I backed it down to 14 psi and it ran like that for 10 years. A mate's died at 12 psi a month after he put the exhaust on (and the boost went up as a result).

Theres a blowoff valve on there but I blocked the hose to it because the blowoff vavle was leaking (its really old and shity looking ). Is there a way of actualy telling whether it is a high flow turbo with out taking it off. Do the stock ones have a stamp on them at all to look for

there's a start, put the stock one back on if you're running an AFM with a stock ECU... and to answer your question not really, I would just pull off the intake and see if the comp housing has been machined

It had a microtech on it when I got it. It ran like shit and didnt aant to start so I checked the computer and it was all corroded so I put a standard one on and now it starts but dosnt want to idle cold at all I have to sit there and

Keep it from stalling till its warm. But even then if I turn the aircon on it will die start away. I will have to buy a new blowoff vavle and do a minor service to it and see if thers is any difference

You might have larger injectors running on a stock ECU, all makes sense now.. the car had a high flow turbo, an aftermarket ECU, so most likely it has larger injectors to compliment the rest of the setup.

I would see what size injectors they are, if they're bigger either you install the stock ones OR get another aftermarket ECU, rescale the injectors to suit then bring it to a tuner.

ummmmmmmmms.... can't remember on the top of my head what RB20DET injectors look like, but they could also be 440cc GT-R injectors.

Can you trace the wires back to a resistor pack like so:

post-46-1171324843.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...