Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Title says it all, guys. Recently swapped in a Series I Rb25DET, it runs well enough, but I'll be damned if I can't get any of my accessory power to work.

Inoperative items include:

- Gauge Cluster

- Rear lights (Brake, Running, etc)

- Turn Signals (Front and Rear)

- Interior Lights

- Accessories (A/C, heat, power windows, etc)

Items still functioning:

- Headlights

- Radio and Speakers

I'm kind of burnt out and at a complete loss. It's not exactly legal to drive around as it were, so getting these things back would be most appreciated. I figure there is a sole cause for pretty much all of these, hopefully someone else has encountered this random issue.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Oi man had identical problem with my 32 and i mean IDENTICAL. Ur windows probably don't work either ?i also kept blowing the accessories fuse. In my case i slammed it in reverse too had and the speed sensor plug fell out of the gear box. All that had to be done was plug it back in. Just look on the drivers side of the gear box and see if there's a loose plug or something like that.

040122, Crawled around the gearbox for awhile, but no joy on anything unplugged or loose. Since I was using the cruddy screw-jack from a friends car, I couldn't get very far under it to look up higher. It's sad I have to ask, but I want to eliminate every possibility, where exactly on the gearbox is the plug located, just so I can be doubly certain?

Also, thanks a million for the input!

Well if its an rb20 gearbox then it should be on the drivers side of the box, bout half way between the top and bottom.....i think, it was easier for me as i have a pit, just got in there with a torch. Are u blowing the accessories fuse? Check that n maybe Google speed sensor for rb. My power steering also screwed up with all those other symtons . Ps replacing the blown fuse won't fix it until after the sensor is fixed.

  • 2 weeks later...

Alright, I lifted her up and poked around the gearbox, no plugs hanging, all accounted for. So, I started checking everything for continuity back with a Multimeter, and I found my problem. I'm sort of embarrassed to admit this, really, but it was a very stupid oversight. I had compared my bay fusebox with every other R32 on base here, GTS-t, GTS-4, GTRs, all of them run with no 75A Main Fuse. Apparently, for reasons I don't want to look into, I do need that 75A Main, because I bridged it with a bit of speaker wire and, lo and behold, all my accessories work fine. Thanks for all the input, though, I really appreciate the friendly help!

  • 6 years later...
  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...