Jump to content
SAU Community

Infiniti G35 With Excessive Oil Consumption ...

wizlb
 Share

Recommended Posts

wizlb Proficient

wizlb

Posted
Posted

Infiniti G35 with excessive oil consumption ... in 1,000 miles or less indicates internal engine issues

In American the 2005 G35 had to offer engine repacement because the oil issues.

Review the dfferent sites to get a handle of the info.

Good luck with your G35......

http://www.6mt.net/forum/g35-sedan-2003-06/26969-g35-purchasing-oil-consumption-issue.html

http://nissan350z-infinitig35oilconsumption.com/

http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-general-tech-questions/181131-oil-burning-issue.html

http://forums.nicoclub.com/g37-owners-must-read-t369083.html

wizlb Proficient

wizlb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Guys...

I have a non rev engine and I am replacing oil so fast, I would say about every 2K.

This is FYI and if you don't have this problem, cool.

I can care less where the engine was made..

When it's an import there is no company warranty, so replacing the engine like in American is not an option.

I hope it's just me with this problem!!!

Brian

R6n350GT Experienced

R6n350GT

Posted
Posted

Warranty Company like National Warranty Company are scams anyway, Nagoya scammed me $2000 for a warranty that was 100% supposed to give me $5000 engine cover for this sort of thing. I cant use it one bit, its completely useless, NWC.com.au pull the "normal wear and tear" and consequential BS card and pay nothing.. I would try replacing the PCV valve, get quality oil catch can inbetween the PCV and plenum, get new valve cover gaskets, replace spark plugs and start using 5W 40 Shell-Rotella-T6 Oil and you will have alot less usage. If still an issue then worn rings.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Lol. Its not a Kingswood!

Its pretty easy to find where your losing the oil. Your either leaking it or burning it. Make sure your oil measurements are "scientific" (ie repeatable). That means, car dead cold on a flat surface.

VQs do have a bit of blow by, and this can lead to oil getting pushed through the PCV and burned. An inspection of the internal of the plenum will tell you how bad it has been. I have seen bad, and have seen almost brand new as well. Other typical VQ traits are the spark plug tube seals leaking, rocker cover gaskets leaking oil, and a weap out the sump plug if the washer isn't fresh.

AlexanderWilde Collaborator

AlexanderWilde

Posted
Posted

check your exhaust in the morning/ cold start! give it slight rev and get someone to look at the exhaust, a blue tinge smoke usually means you're burning oil so the issue may be that the rings are just worn and you end up burning most of your oil. this is very common for engines that had either a factory fault minor manufacturing defects or engines that have been revved and abused like crazy.


Try a thicker oil and see how you go. also check under the car for oil spots that may be a clear indicator of a leak.

as for warranty for engines. you have to prove to them the leak is a faulty component and not a wear and tear as normal wear and tear is a minor amount of oil being burnt or lost thru normal day to day driving but if u run out of oil after 2000k that is not normal for an engine.

something like this sounds like an engine rebuild / recondition. like changing seals and piston rings and the likes. witch is time consuming.

wizlb Proficient

wizlb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am not leaking any oil...I have check this often....

I will double check my exhaust in the morning...

From what I have read in America..this is common but the car, engine run fully fine....and fast....well for a G35..LOL

THANKS EVERYONE!!

Like I said before....I wanted to see if anyone else had this small issue...

AlexanderWilde Collaborator

AlexanderWilde

Posted
Posted

I use Mobil 5-30 and my car has 150,000Km on ODO. change the oil every 5000 to 10 000 Km and every time i lose close to 0.5L so to me it sounds like your car burns oil or its losing it somewhere else. i recommend getting a qualified mechanic or someone that knows what they are doing and do a major service and have them change all fluids and keep an eye out for extra oil or oil in that fluid. like oil in the coolant ( bad sign ) then make sure you do a full flush of the oil and put in a thicker oil. 10w40 sounds a bit to thick but i know people that run it on newer models that are are above 100 000 km and have no dramas in fact recommend it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...