Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I’ve got a new turbo on the way from Hypergear and wanted check whether I’ve got my supporting mods covered. The handling and brake upgrades etc have been done.

The car: '99 C34s2 RS4-S Stagea

Current Mods:

  • Greddy Front Mount Intercooler
  • 3" Full stainless steel Fujitsubo exhaust and stainless steel front pipe with 3" Venom 200cpi hi-flow cat
  • Nistune ECU
  • Turbosmart Boost Tee
  • Nismo High-Flow Volume Fuel Pump
  • HKS Panel Filter

The turbo: Hypergear ATR43SS2 inc billet comp wheel, oil line and 14psi actuator with Nissan 6bolt OEM assembly.

Mods to be installed with turbo:

  • Nismo 480cc Injectors
  • Z32 AFM
  • Scotty metal intake pipe

Is there anything else I should be considering? Subscribing to the “do it once, do it right” philosophy here, so would much rather spend a bit more on quality parts now rather than have troubles and/or dissatisfaction down the track.

Would it be worth ditching the Turbosmart Boost Tee in favour of a Greddy Profec B Spec II? Is upgrading to a Splitfire coilpack going to make a difference?

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421928-pre-turbo-upgrade-mod-checklist/
Share on other sites

The t will be fine my greedy boost controller sits in the car not hooked up just ended up using a t much easier to tune with and if your stock coil packs are holding up they will be fine too but some time down the track they will need replacing , have you got the plug with afm

The t will be fine my greedy boost controller sits in the car not hooked up just ended up using a t much easier to tune with and if your stock coil packs are holding up they will be fine too but some time down the track they will need replacing , have you got the plug with afm

Cool. Yep the one I bought comes with a Tomei plug.

i basically done everything u done above with same turbo except for the injectors and only have cat back zaust.

Main mods i would have liked to have completed if funds permitted would have been injectors, dump pipe, ebc, shift kit, cams & greddy plenum. Its a good turbo by the way excellent midrange

Internal gate, so a EBC might be worth it... depending how hard you want to lean on it .External gates are a different story.

Ill be interested to see how it goes, was so close to getting the ss2

cheers

darren

Yeah I'm worried about it being too laggy... my understanding is that an EBC can help bring boost on sooner?

R34 GTT Brake conversion...

You might as well do oil and plugs while your at it... especially plugs before a tune.

Gaskets (as above) and vac line.

I'm interested to see how you go with the ss2 on a heavy stag.

Cheers

Justin

PS... an ebc will only bring the boost on sooner if the actuator is 'blowing' open prematurely. it can't make the turbo spool any faster.

R34 GTT Brake conversion...

It has R33 gts-t brakes with slotted rotors atm.

I should probably mention that I'll be getting this all done at a workshop... I'm not game to tackle something this big!

Edited by Marshstag

Fuel pump?

See first post - it has a Nismo fuel pump ;)

Ouch work shop sounds expensive

Yeah it won't be cheap, but at least it will all be installed at once and then tuned. Thus my reason for wanting to make sure I haven't overlooked anything!

Just out of curiosity Andrew, what kind of costs have you been quoted for the new Turbo and Injectors, etc? Interested in doing those upgrades as well, I've got the same (almost identical) Mods to you at the moment, so I'm pretty keen to know what I'd be up for.

In relation to the SplitFire coil packs, I'd highly recommend the upgrade, whether your existing packs are good or not, if you've got the cash to spare, get the new packs, you won't regret it. The existing stock coilpacks will most definitely shit themselves at some stage.

The total for the turbo as described above was $1500 delivered. PM Stao from Hypergear for a quote.

The injectors, I'm getting through forum member 'elrodeo666'. Marcus is able to order directly from Nismo in Japan. The total was $725 delivered.

Who's tuning/fitting it all ?, i got the G3 type A, be interesting to see the difference when finished, mines auto though

Your car will be a allrounder after turbo fitment, looks so bloody good , will have the speed to go with it to !

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
    • Hello am apex am new here and also thanks for helping registering the forum 
×
×
  • Create New...