Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I bought some rims from a member which were apparently in good condition. Few months went by (tyres were in storage and me overseas for work) I went to a place to fit some tyres on it.

I've bought some ku36's (235/40/18) which fit quite nicely however two of the rims are pretty effd. The guy showed me the rim on the machine as it was wobbling as it was spinning.

He had to put some weight to try and make it work, normally i see up to 40g of weight being added on - however he had to put about 140g on one and 85 on the other.

Going by that the other two good nic will be at the front and these in the rear:

- Is this safe to drive?

- Will the car constantly need wheel balancing/alignment because of it?

cheers for the input guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421962-140g-weight-balancing-safe/
Share on other sites

I had a similar probably and was advised that any wobbling whatever on a wheel spells trouble and needed to be professionally fixed before being fitted as it would creates vibrations and imbalance when driving.

So I suggest you get them fixed before driving with them fitted.

Another mate of mine only had minor damage on when wheel and it creates severe vibrations when driving and can actually affect the stability of the car and your wheel alignment too.

Did the seller know the two rims were damaged and had advised you?

Thanks for the reply,

Well on the day when I came to buy them I asked if they were in an accident or damaged - he said they were in perfect condition, now he claims that I should have tested them within two weeks and that I've caused the damage to them even though there isn't a scratch on them. He keeps altering his mind which is the frustrating bit from the wheel balancer doesnt know what he is doing, those rims are better then the ones he has, i've caused the damage and to the latest "what do you expect from 10yr old rims".

He must have known as there is a reason they were all marked (L Front, R Front, L Rear and R Rear) so he would know where to put them.

I can understand they wont be perfect but I took his word thinking it would be ok.

Ill have to chase it up - do you know any places in VIC?

I've been told by some people its fine however not to exceed the 130km/h mark because then you might notice it.....still prob not worth the risk really

I found a place near my house which aint bad, ill get a quote and let people know just in case.

Appreciate the help bud

Edited by milanr34

You can use them no worries, they get annoying at high speeds with really high vibrations, pretty much was drifting on my front that were wobbling hard on the balance machine and anything over 80ks felt like something had broken the amount of vibrations there were prob did contribute to me killing two racks from the vibrations at 140+ while sideways but yeah they are usuable.

Rotating them on the rim? Not too sure what you mean, but he put the rim only first and turned them on (prob to test them out) then came the tyre and balancing.

Alright so as long as im not going 140km/h sideways im sweet haha

tnx fellas

Ill post the results when I visit the shop

"Rotating them on the rim" refers to the fact that if the wheel has a mechanical imbalance (ie more weight on one side than the other) and the tyre is also unbalanced, you can minimise the amount of balance weight that you need to add to the assembly to make it stop vibrating by simply rotating the tyre around the rim a bit, re-inflate and spin it up again. Something of a suck and see approach. Once you find an alignment that vibrates the least, you balance it like that and use the least weight.

But your real concern is really whether the wheel is simply a shit poor wheel (ie, phycisally unbalanced, with more alloy on one side than another) or bent/distorted/out of round in some way.

If it is a simple unbalance issue, then I'd piss the wheels off and not use them because there is no reason for such shittly manufactured wheels to be sold, let alone used. if they are damaged, then you need to find out if they can be massaged back into shape without weakening them further (cast alloy is not as forgiving as steel). And then you need to find out if the cost of doing so wouldn't be better spent on new wheels instead. For eg, if it's going to cost $150 per wheel to fix them, and new wheels from the tirerack.com are only $250+freight.......you have to work out what you'd rather do.

Thanks for the info GTSBoy, they are r34 GTR rims so im presuming they should be good if they were to be put back into shape.$150 i guess it isnt so bad, especially since i just bought the kumhos they are only 2 days old haha

Ill see how it goes. Tnx for the info all

As GTSBoy said, might be as simple as breaking the bead, rotating the tyre and having another go. Tyres have an orientation on a rim, look on your tyre to see red or green dots/markings, this tells the tyre fitter where to put the tyre (red dot near the valve, etc)

I've had balance pretty far out before, tried rotating the tyre a few times and got it down to 40grams.

  • 1 month later...

Cheers for the info, haven't had time to look at this prob as ive been swamped with work..

The guys at OTR surely know how to put a tyre on else they would be known by all SAU members.

Will have to do it one of these days.

Also happen to get negative feed back from the seller haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...