Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK. Those urethane bushes you have in there are probably not adjustable. There is some eccentric adjustment available at the inner end but not a lot, as you've found already. The arm itself may well have been bent. You'll need to try to work out if the toe angle in your report means that the arm is longer than it needs to be or shorter than it needs to be. Longer would be a problem, because it would be difficult to bend the arm to make it longer.....it would be far more likely to become shorter than it needed to be from being hit against a kerb.

The tie rod mount on the knuckle, mentioned above by boostn, is the cast bit visible to the left of your arm in the photo. These are cast, so tend not to bend before the flimsy bent metal stuff attached to them (or normal HICAS tie rods in the case of HICAS rear ends) bends. But it is possible. Many people hit these things against kerbs, replace the obviously bent stuff and leave the hub carrying damage that they couldn't/didn't see.

It's not the HICAS tie rod ends...because you don't have HICAS you don't even have the tie rods. That arm you show in your photo is the "toe control arm" - serves the same function as the HICAS tie rod. It connects to the same hole on the hub (just with the HICAS ball joint pressed out and a normal bush in there instead).

It might be difficult to see if the cast part there is bent in any way. It's hard to see a few mm of deflection when you don't have a bent one and a straight one on the bench side by side.

As to the straightness of the toe control arm itself, you might have to take it off and sit it on the bench next to the one from the other side, and see if you can notice any difference between them. It would also be good if you can get the wheel aligners to tell you what that toe measurement is in millimetres, rather than the degrees they quoted. Most people think of toe measurements in mm, rather than angle. The magnitude of the "problem" may be better understood if it were in units we expect.

According to this I have 1.1mm toe in.

ww.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/355913-toe-adjustment/

I will check the ride heights on each side first then have a good look around there when I get the chance.

If I take the toe arms off will I have to get another alignment? What if I chuck on some aftermarket toe arms?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...