Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha I don't think I'm ready for track still getting the hang of it.

I had my mate drive it and he showed me its full potential so when I learn to drive like him then ill take it out on track.

The track is the best place to learn how to drive it, and it's the only place you want to drive it hard.

Take it out to a Texikhana too, very good for learning your driving skills.

are u ok ?

^ About time he got a warning. His posted started to annoy me, and I don't moderate here lol.

OP, track days is the best place to learn how to drive as mentioned already. On your first day you will quickly figure out how bad your driving is and adjust to suit. Something as simple as hand placement on your steering wheel. Best to do skidpans/texi as well, as you'll more likely use those skills (for example, controlling a slide if you hit oil) on the road.

My first track day on a wet Oran Park in my crapbox R31 was the most fun I had and learnt so much.

You don't need power for track days. Flush your brake fluid with something decent (Super DOT4 at a minimum), put some decent pads on there (contact GSL Rallysport for some Resma or A1RMs), replace all fluids and filters, etc.

Keep your standard blow-off valve, apart from the lame noise, you have no other reason to get rid of it. It helps with response between gear changes. For boost, stick with standard for now. Once you get used to the car (how it handles, power delivery, fix all the other shit first like brakes, suspension, etc.), you can buy a boost controller (e.g. $30 turbotech) or stick an RB20 turbo actuator (10psi) on there. No point running more than that, reasons mentioned already.

Hmm - you can probably run 12psi then, but yeah, with stock ecu you'll get massive rich-and-retard in the middle (like it has MASSIVE lag in the middle of the RPM curve), then comes on ridiculously strong. If you're not used to it, you'll punch your car into a pole.

If you haven't had a turbo car before, set it to 9psi, have a play with that, and then once you're confident (and I'm still assuming no funny business on the roads), then look at moving it upwards.

When I first got my 33, mine was set to 12psi and it scared the living shit out of me. (admittedly with a Power FC so the midrange grunt was back)

Meh. You make it sound like theres a huge difference between 9 and 12 on a stock GTST. I feel like I can have a cup of coffe while at WOT on 12 psi in my gtst.

That said I find even the speed of stock GTRs boring these days. When I was younger I was like whoa, now its more like, get a move on you POS :D

Edited by sonicz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
    • The rod I was moving left and right you can see looking from the passenger side floor up into the center console.  IMG_8095.mov
×
×
  • Create New...