Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has anyone had problems with these guys? ive had nothing but dramas for the past 5 weeks chasing a air flow meter. I paid for it and they sent one. it had water in it and was full of rust and not working. after telling them and sending pics they said they will replace it and I never got anything. I was waiting another 2 weeks for it to arive than I called them yesterday and they told me they didnt even send anything when they told me its on its way and asked for my bank details to refund me the money.

has any one had problems with them? ive bourght alot of parts off them and never had problems before.

ive gone to just jap today to buy another and the condition of the one from just jap is in 100% good condition. I think ill be staying at just jap now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422174-skyline-spairs/
Share on other sites

From personal experience, I know them to not have a decent customer service experience, as with 80% of wreckers out there.

Also are you reffering to JustJap or JJ AutoParts (formerly known as Just Japanese Auto Parts)? JJ AutoParts have a proper office and I think they are by far the most professional wreckers out there (though their site could be a bit better for viewing and browsing experience).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422174-skyline-spairs/#findComment-6792657
Share on other sites

The impression I got when I drove there a couple of times is that it's basically two guys who buy halfcuts and wrecks and fill containers with bits then sell them off. Quality of parts and service don't seem to take a high place on their priority list, but that being said, the prices are reasonable enough that you can't really complain.

The last thing I bought was a GTR wing, and I was told they would have it ready for me on arrival. When I arrived they had the whole boot ready for me and the sales guy helped me load it into the Forester. When I got it home, I wanted to remove the wing and put it on my boot instead of try to peel the GTR badge and VSpec stickers off the GTR boot (and it was not as nice as my boot condition-wise).

Only then I noticed the crack under the LED where it was broken when they tried to remove it. When I started to undo it all, the double-sided tape on one side was peeled, indicating that it was previously messed with, and the nuts with captive washers were mostly missing and some were replaced with smaller non-washer nuts, so you could see where the previous (wider) washer-nuts were previously.

So, a bit broken and obviously when it happened they gave up and decided not to tell me that it was no longer "perfect condition" and to give me the whole boot so that I thought that they hadn't touched it. I CBF following up on it because I wanted it and i'd removed my boot and wing already and it is over an hour drive to get to their unit. I'm sure if I hung out I could get a better one for the $500 I paid, but I was impatient.

So... mixed results, and at the end of the day they are a business and i'm sure they would refund or exchange on broken or 'not as described' things. Slow contact and response is par for the course for a small-time operator like this. I get almost immediate responses from Import Monster and JustJap, but they will cost almost twice as much for most things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422174-skyline-spairs/#findComment-6798656
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Nah mate there a rip off with price! They sold me a dodgy engine that was supposed to be 300000 km it had a cracked piston and stuffed bore in cylinder one ! And they argued and threatened me and wouldnt give me a refund I was told it was compression tested i drained the oil and bits of pistons came out from the oil hole bastards I won't go there !

Edited by 500hp
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422174-skyline-spairs/#findComment-6829351
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...