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33 Gts-T Drift And Street...

RichSin Autoworks
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RichSin Autoworks Apprentice

RichSin Autoworks

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Posted

Hey guys, my next step with my 33 is some alignment work. Has anyone got a some alignment specs that have worked well for them while staying as a road rego'd common use car?

I dont mind what happens to comfort or tyre wear...

Caster

Camber

Toe

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RichSin Autoworks Apprentice

RichSin Autoworks

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I have a local guy with an EF Ford Falcon that says adjust your caster til arms hit, then cut the arms so you can go further, then max your camber out til your car looks like a hovercraft... I understand people can't tell me the perfect setup but can people post up what camber, caster and toe settings that arent bad or work well for them so when i go in to work on Saturday and put my car on the aligner i can go to -3.0 cam, +xxx cas, 1mm toe in etc... please.

Our Beissbarth aligner can use inputs, so Im just looking for different setups to try out. I'll work out whats best for me, I just need some to trial.

Please and thanks.

Edited by RichSin Autoworks
RichSin Autoworks Apprentice

RichSin Autoworks

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Perfect example, just watching RaceFactory 1, the japanese are drifting their full road cars and their track cars - regardless whether it is their daily or the track car their alignments wouldnt stand out to you if they drove past you in the street. This is what I am looking for...

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

It's not a big deal. Camber, try between -2.0 to -3.5, see what you like best

Castor, I'd put as much as you can without the wheel rubbing on the front guard/front bar

Toe is more subjective, some people like toe out, some toe in.


There is no definitive wheel alignment for every drift car in the world, it's subjective, some top drifters swear by toe out but I don't like it.

For rear, I'd just set it up so you get the best tyre wear.

  • 4 months later...
RichSin Autoworks Apprentice

RichSin Autoworks

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I was watching the Drifts at Winton and noticed when cars come out of the dummy grid that some spin the wheels easier then others... AND... They dont seem to be that fast when they come by on the gas... I am starting to wonder if it is indeed something to do with the rear alignment maybe? Maybe a little toe with no camber makes it quite twitchy? Not sure... That is why I thought I might ask the question as to what seems to work for people so I could try some things out because if I listen to my locals they just say roll SOOO much Caster into it that suspension arms hit, then cut the arms so they clear, then max out your Camber, then bodge the arms using a welder and some bolts and stuff to make MORE Camber, (0 toe, always 0 toe never need toe blah blah blah - hahahaa) and multi grip your gaurds with HellaFlush wheel sizes and offsets... I figure you guys are a bit more professional hahahaa! Thanks for the input guys.

  • 1 month later...
LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted

The reason why some cars slide so much easier but don't come past fast on the gas is tyre quality.

Depending on how much power your car has is how you set up the rear end and what tyres you use. 0.5 - 1mm camber in the rear and just a beez dick toe in (cant remember for the life of me)

White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

^As above, more grip equals more drive. When my car was still standard, engine/turbo wise, I was able to keep up with cars making a lot more power than myself, by running brand new 235 federal 595's.

In regards to wheel alignment, if its for drift you don't want to run too much castor. With circuit work, pretty much the more the better, but with drifting too much castor causes positive camber on the inside wheel at opposite lock. Around 7-8 degrees positive castor is a good starting point. But this also depends on driver preference.

Run some toe out on the front for better turn in abd start with zero rear toe and work your way in firm there. Hope this helps.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

I was watching the Drifts at Winton and noticed when cars come out of the dummy grid that some spin the wheels easier then others... AND... They dont seem to be that fast when they come by on the gas... I am starting to wonder if it is indeed something to do with the rear alignment maybe? Maybe a little toe with no camber makes it quite twitchy? Not sure... That is why I thought I might ask the question as to what seems to work for people so I could try some things out because if I listen to my locals they just say roll SOOO much Caster into it that suspension arms hit, then cut the arms so they clear, then max out your Camber, then bodge the arms using a welder and some bolts and stuff to make MORE Camber, (0 toe, always 0 toe never need toe blah blah blah - hahahaa) and multi grip your gaurds with HellaFlush wheel sizes and offsets... I figure you guys are a bit more professional hahahaa! Thanks for the input guys.

too much camber in the rear maybe and they aren't getting any traction down and just spinning wheels...maybe more responsive smaller turbo setup as opposed to laggier big power ones...maybe a bit of both...could be many things...

im with keep it simple though..

camber .about 2.5 - 3.5 degrees at the front maybe a 1-1.5 degree or so at the rear...these settings are pretty standard though for any lowered skyline and don't require adjustable arms

caster, definately add some, how much will depend on you..just adjust it around until you feel right..small adjustments are easily noticable though and adjustable caster arms is the first adjustable arms i would buy

toe...a little at the front and a beezdick or none at the rear..

these are fairly basic settings that dont require alot of modifcation, they will be good for all round use and any good driver should perform well with them in any conditions...Personally I drive more for grip than drift but on the street and track these setting work well for me and effortlessly throws into any corner without worry...So I'd say start here and at the end of the day good drifting (as with any driving) will come down to lots of practice more than your alignment settings...

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

I found toe out on the front to make initial turn in understeery, but it was better after that.
For reference, my car was an Aus R31 with S13 front end conversion, longer tie rods, -3.5 camber, 1mm toe out, 6.8 castor and 205/45r16 Federal Evo tyres.

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