Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I got a Pedders suspension check because its loose as a hooker and leaning on its own tyres in a corner and I don't know enough about it.

So what else would you get done to improve handling while you change these bits?

lateral arms - lower, whatever that is?

Cross member mounts

sway bar links and bushes

upper control arm & inner bushes

radius rod and bushes

Essentially all the bushes and the sway bar links need replacing. So while they are off, may aswell improve some stuff and looking for ideas.

The sway bars will be changed out along with the rest, but what else?

  • Like 1

Don't replace any arms. There is no need.

Do all the bushes. Polyurethane adjustables for upper arms so you can adjust the camber a bit. Polyurethane for lower bushes if you don't mind a harsh ride, harder than stock rubber ones for a halfway bet or standard rubber ones to try to keep it more civilised.

New rear subframe mounts are a good idea. I would just use standard ones here unless you want to stiffen it up to the max and suffer more NVH. Same with diff mounts if they have been flagged as bad.

24mm adjustable Whiteline anti-rollbars at both ends with the heavy duty links as appropriate.

The caster rods are an interesting point. Minimally, you just put new bushes in. The next step up is you put non-adjustable polyurethane bushes in (that is a nice improvement). Next step is adjustable polyurethane. That is the minimum I would do. The final step is to take off the original rods and replace with aftermarket ones with rose joints at the front end. These are about a bazzillion times better than any other option.....except they are not road legal. I normally try to keep everything on the car legal, but I will break that rule for caster rods!

You probably need new dampers too, but that is a big extra lump of coin. Look into it after you've bled yourself dry doing all that other stuff.

Top tip: Don't go to Pedders. I've been to 3 in my life-time and each experience was well below average. A combination of poor diagnosis, expensive parts and labour and theft of parts.

Try a specialist suspension place (independent), or even Fulcrum.

Fulcrum (I've been to 2) is not exactly fantastic, but MUCH better than Pedders.

If it was me and for just street use i would do the following.

Replace all bushes with polyurathane bushes e.g. nolerthane/ supper pro.

up grade the sway bars

front strut brace.

and if need a decent set of shocks and lowered springs.

and a good wheel alimenght.

^ yes nobody else (apart from GTSBoy) has mentioned getting a good set of shocks and springs. I myself have just ordered a set of Bilsteins from SK and now awaiting arrival. Pretty excited to get them in!

Eeek. Heaps. There's at least a few hours of labour to do all of it. That adds up quick, on top of the price for bushes.

If you can live without the being mobile and can get it up on stands at home, then you could get it all apart and take the arms you want bushes done into a workshop. Chuck then a few coins to push the old ones out and new ones in.

Eeek. Heaps. There's at least a few hours of labour to do all of it. That adds up quick, on top of the price for bushes.

If you can live without the being mobile and can get it up on stands at home, then you could get it all apart and take the arms you want bushes done into a workshop. Chuck then a few coins to push the old ones out and new ones in.

very good advice, mate tried to do his own bushes with a hammer and freezing them (some method he found on anotehr forum) did NOT work ended up having to take it into the shop and it was done quick and easy!

  • 1 month later...

Called around literally more than 10 places around Sydney based on reputation, they all wanted more than pedders by half a grand or more, usually about half a grand and that was for less work and replacing less of the bushes. Pedders are replacing all of the bushes, top and bottom, got me the sway bars I wanted at pretty close to the price I wanted and didnt duck me around. Some other places didnt duck me around, but some places wanted to charge 200+ for a bloody wheel alignment, let alone some other miraculous additions for no reason. The hard part is that the work is being done, I haven't checked it out after that yet, so this may or may not be the start of some headache. Fingers crossed aye.

Changing all your busted bushes will help tighten things up. Even more so if they're poly bushes instead of rubber. How old are your shocks? Old shocks will be soft and sloppy.

Also, I think it's a generalisation to put all Pedders shops into the 'bad' basket. The one I go to in Melbourne (South Melbourne) has always been honest and really gone out of their way to help to get things over the line.

So long as the price doesn't change dramatically from when you drive it in, to when you're at the counter picking up your keys, a hundred or two over can happen once things start getting pulled apart and problems occur.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Block bump. $400. As above cyl 6 needs bore or sleeve.
    • I would think making the argument that the travel is limited by a spring flexing against a spring perch as "the same method". Later on in the document they do state that the spring can't bind on full bump travel and cannot come loose in full rebound travel as well. (which is all very sensible). The laws are actually pretty sensible and reasonable. It's just that the people who enforce and check them don't actually read them or know them accurately. "Oh, coilovers? Instant fail mate. Don't even need to look at it." - Guy who will be instantly reported by me. There is probably merit to people who do get defected for height also get defected for the suspension in that state that allows it. I did never consider the people who are complaining about coilovers being picked on are also running around at 50mm off the floor.
    • I think given SAU's knowledge of E85 we can strongly conclude that 10% ethanol in almost any situation is entirely fine. Almost all of the myths against E85 were overblown, let alone E10.
    • From your link See bold text, is this referring to damper settings, if so that may a issue for "some" inspectors, I cannot see aftermarket coilovers having the evidence that "must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original" Maybe just remove the adjustment knows and hope for the best???? Meh 5.2 Suspension travel In all instances, modifications to a vehicle’s suspension must ensure the integrity of the system and not compromise the ride quality. At least two thirds of the original suspension travel should be maintained in both directions (rebound (i.e. extension) and bump (i.e. compression)), and rebound must be limited by the same method used by the vehicle manufacturer or if this is not practicable due to the nature of the modification, an equivalent method. If an alternative method is used, evidence must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original.
    • They actually don't - They adhere to VSB14 rules just like Victoria. The rules are against CABIN adjustable height, and it quite clearly states that the height has to be within parameters. I asked the VASS engineer to confirm this when I got my car engineered and they refused to engineer the coilovers because they didn't meet the requirements for requiring engineering. (mine are height adjustable.) People "Not wanting to bother" with "Actually reading/knowing/adhering to the rules" should result in fines and immediately losing the ability to issue blue slips and/or RWC's in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...