Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah but emissions laws are constantly changing these days, so it's hard to directly compare things. Not to mention what an engine it's designed for. An engine designed for a suv will have different outputs to something designed for a sports car. But I do get what you are saying.

Ok I have been going slow with the build I got the head back before machining to bolt it up the block is in my backyard atm I just setup my engine stand at work so I will be taking photos soon.

I will make a new thread soon and leave this one here for tech discussion.

I will say a engine needs air fuel and spark it gives no farks for how many valves are delivering the air/fuel to it. My head can be flowed for 350hp with 1mm oversized valves so I roughly know that it will need to spin at 8k maybe a little more to make that. My cam choice will be made for about 8k with a 2.6l (due to bore size) engine at 8k I think I will need to limit power to about 320 330 to stay just under 8k rpm.

There is also the points that I made earlier in the thread about the 2v head being vastly cheaper and easier for me to work with. If you have not make sure you read the quotes on the first two pages as these points made by a pro engine builder are quite true.

The build thread will start when I get time to move my engine the head is bare so ill just be mocking up for a while. I also don't have much cash so progress will not be overnight :)

My cam choice will be made for about 8k with a 2.6l (due to bore size) engine at 8k I think I will need to limit power to about 320 330 to stay just under 8k rpm.

oh cool, yah u don't wana make to much power with this NA build..

oh cool, yah u don't wana make to much power with this NA build..

If I was aiming at say 10k I would be better off using the 25 or 26 head as the air speed of the ports would favour dual valve intakes. This would also increase costs immensely as I would not only need to spend more on the head but also more on the rotating assembly as I would *want* a fully counterweighted crank. Revving the engine into 10k and past territory would also mean I would need to spend alot more on the gearbox for a small percentage gain over a much cheaper 8k rpm build.

oh cool, yah u don't wana make to much power with this NA build..

Dude come on Leave the guy alone. He is willing to try something different and put it up here for us to see. Im keeping my opinions on this to myself and im actually keen to see what this does as its different to the usual rb25 with a gt3076 etc we get on here.

  • Like 1

Dude come on Leave the guy alone. He is willing to try something different and put it up here for us to see. Im keeping my opinions on this to myself and im actually keen to see what this does as its different to the usual rb25 with a gt3076 etc we get on here.

...................

.........

I also don't have much cash so progress will not be overnight :)

and i rest my case... Hes a nice guy and hes motivated i'll give him that but hes spending alot of cash for im afraid almost no gains in power, what 155rwkw? holly bannanas thats nothing, but will wait and c the outcome incase he proves us wrong with 160rwkw, until then i'll sit in silence and admiration

Edited by discoPumpkin

My car made 109rwkW (@ like 4,500rpm lol), standard RB30E with a GTS1 cam and GTS2 extractors.

Don't underestimate the power of the RB30E!

except hes going down to a RB25E, so it should fry the tyres even more so then the rest yolo

without me sifting through the pages of opinion,

I'd like to say if you go the easy route and use a RB30 ECU I will set a tune up for you to get it running well.

If you want to go Nistune, I can do that also.

need a shorter timing belt no doubt.

What wiring loom were you planning to use, as the RB25 one is substantially different to the RB30 one which you will need unless aftermarket ECU?

btw, the RB30 is a good head and capable of as much horsepower as anything else. cam and a stally or 25-manual box will make for a nice combo.

Hi all what would be the go with this what would I need to mod the head or the block? Also how and what would I do to do this.

Also I do not need anyone telling me to use a 25 head there is reasons why I am doing this I could work it out myself but want to fast track the process.

Thx for helpful responses in advanced.

Edited by Stock e-Tune

I am a mechanic guys I have been involved with and have driven very fast cars I want a turbo yes but I don't froth over turbos like some.

A Mechanic that drives this...
http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67270787-dyno-s-car

shanes028.jpg

PF = performance forums?

Pretty much yeah

http://performanceforums.com/forums/member.php?52013-dynoryder

Stopped getting attention over there, came here... Awesome...




Ah it's good to be back :action-smiley-069:

yeah the guy is full of shit, but kept PF entertained with his retarded antics for a while. Ash can you now move this to the Wasteland?

I am full of disappointment as to how this thread turned out... Wasteland

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
×
×
  • Create New...