Cams And Getting More Power.

[MrRx7s3]

Hey guys first of all I'd like to start of by saying that I have searched the forum and haven't found anything specific to what I'm asking, and I just want to get some education on this as well as what way exactly to go about getting more power.

So I'm interested in knowing more about cams and what their benefits are, don't flame me but I've been more into rotaries and own one and have worked on them for a while now and now I'm getting more into Turbo Piston setups.

What are the actual benefits of Camshafts? does it allow more air flow etc? or is there more to it?

Also what is it about the cams that make the motor sound more "lumpy" is it for like example a rotary bridgeport it lumps because of the overlap etc.

I want to get my R34 over the 300kw mark, from what I read and understood I will write a list of what I think I need to achieve it below and a list of my current mods.

As I said its a R34 GTT Series 2.

Current Mods:

Power FC Ecu - Tuned to 207rwkw.

Standard turbo with a Turbosmart t-piece boost controller at 12psi.

3" Exas Evo cat back exhaust with a high flow cat.

Separated dump pipe with the waste gate plumed back into the standard front pipe where it goes down to the L then straight.

Pod Filter with custom cold air intake.

Front Mount Intercooler.

Now from what I understand to get 300+rwkw:

GT3540R Turbo - although I don't know what size housings to get or what the sizes mean (eg. higher the number more power but more lag or other way around etc.

Top Mount Turbo Manifold.

Should I also get a 3" front pipe?

Injectors I think it was 555cc? whats the best brand to get?

Front facing plenum.

Fuel pump, but which one?

Z32 AFM, is there a way of getting rid of the AFM as it will look a little funny on a top mount manifold but using the Power FC.

And of course a retune.

I know that this has been covered multiple times, but as I said I'm kind of a noob in this scene, and prefer a specific answer if possible to avoid the confusion if anyone is willing to help me and teach me.

What benefit would larger cams give me?

And what size cams to go?

What cams would make it sound "lumpy", I'm a sucker for lumpy cams but hate v8s .

Also I'm due for a clutch very soon and I will need to upgrade it for it to handle 300rwkw's.

What clutch should I go for? I'm stuck between Exedy Button clutch or a Exedy Cushion Button clutch.

It's my daily but also gets driven pretty hard and I'm planning on starting some track days soon.

What do you guys think of the Ebay turbo manifolds and front facing plenum's? are they any good or do they crack and leak.

I'm on abit of a budget so I will be getting the parts one by one until I get them all then install them.

I would like to say thank you very much to everyone that helps, and please don't flame me, everybody has got to start somewhere haha lol, thanks.

[34GeeTeeTee]

eBay manifolds are garbage as far as I have seen...

For GTT the most common cams are poncams, I have the 260 type Bs and they aren't very lumpy, also not required for 300kw

I wouldn't touch and Excedy clutch after my experience, go an NPC or Jim Berry setup and get a better product for a better price.

Gt3540 is no necessary and will be laggy and dissapointing, the NEO can make 300 easily with a range of turbos

[34GeeTeeTee]

For injectors you can get the drop in 1000cc items which will be best... If you haven't got an ECU (on my phone and too lazy to check lol) then a nistune and Z32 will do it...

[r32-25t]

If its a daily, the only clutch you should be considering is the nismo twin plate, will hold more power then your after and drives like standard!

The 3540 is a turbo better suited for chasing 360+. The eBay manifolds as Matt said are garbage

As for cams, mines a 3l and I'm using a 262 with 10.5mm of lift, unfortunately due to complications I can't pass on results yet

[MrRx7s3]

I was also going to ask for what lightweight flywheel use would recommend, I'm going to be paying some testicles for the nismo twin plate aren't I Haha lol.

[34GeeTeeTee]

You can run an NPC organic if 300 is your final goal as they are a big clutch and rated too 330 from memory. Also there is nothing wrong with the standard flywheel, infact mine is heavier than standard.... Don't get caught up in all the hype as just do what is actually needed

SAU has all the info you need, you will get some conflicting opinions but most will get you too your goal

[MrRx7s3]

Hey thanks for all your help guys use are amazing, 34geeteetee, yeah that's why I started this thread so many opinions etc and it just made me even more confused than when I started Haha lol, well look we all say yeah my goal is 300rwkws and that's it, but we all know how it is, you always want more, I know that I will eventually get bored of the power and want more haha lol, I've been in a few cars with lightweight flywheels and I like the feel of it if you get what I mean, thanks.

[34GeeTeeTee]

If its 300 I would stick with low mount with a bolt on HG or Kando, do the fuel system, clutch, injectors, ECU etc etc etc and just enjoy it... If you have money to burn then go high mount, but it adds up fast... 6boost currently had a special on manifolds too if that helps.

[MrRx7s3]

Why would it cost more if I go high mount? Would the power fc do the job.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Manifold, gate, piping, dump pipe, intake pipe, intercooler piping and possible FFP depending which way you choose to go...

Power FC will do the job fine as I was running one but if I had your choice id be going something better and deleting the AFM... Personal opinion

[Jayden.K]

gt35 is way to big, gt30 range with a .82 or (1.06 i think) exhaust housing will do it. like a 3076r

FFP have no gain but come at a loss, there is a reason nissan made the long runner manifold for low down torque. you would only get it if you went for a high mount turbo because you have no room left to plum back your intercooler piping, i have seen it done but looks like shit and a pain to fit.

pc is good but if you got the money def get a vipec/haltec ect. and run no maf, it removes so many issues maf sensors have. or if you want get a power fc detro which is the same but uses a MAP instead of MAF. if you have e85 plans latter you should get a computer that can support a fuel flex set up. power fc will do what you want (make it run/ no fuel flex). others will give you great options apart from simple air, fuel and spark. eg. launch control, fuel flex, ignition retard ect.

fuel pump, nismo, boche 044 ect.

cams just provide more air in and out, it reduce turbo lag and give better mid/high range torque, off boost will be very gutless due to overlap. i just put 260 tomei pon cams in and theres no lump, even installed without changing the clearances and no issues. you need the next size up for lumpy sound and they require a custom grind in the head to fit, unsure if they keep the vvt-i. but they will be shit unless your running a big set up.

bigger injectors the better, you will always want more power, just be aware idle will be a little rough with 1000cc, but dont hold my word it may be ok. once again these will be good if you go down the e85 path

[Joshbigt62r]

Cams are really just a waste of money for 300rwkw. The oem cams are fine. You would be much better off spending the $1000 else where. Like a nice set of grippy tyres or up rated brake pads, discs and braided lines. With 300kw you'll need to atleast upgrade your pads. A NPC organic clutch will be fine for 300kw as has been covered. Id1000s for the injectors. As for turbo call hypergear up. He will make you up something that will be killer compared to a 3540. 3540 is more suited to upper 300's. Oh and stay low mount. Costs to much to go high mount.

[AngryRB]

Im not convinced that cams will reduce lag, increased overlap would only be helpful once your on boost?

A gt3076 is the proven formula, and get 1000cc injectors( Xspurts are not rough) for sure and an E85 400lph walbro, Npc Organic for a nice feeling street friendly clutch, and a good flowing dump and exhaust and your set.. The power fc can be tuned for E85 later, and is cheap enough, a good boost controller and tuner

stock manifold will do it, but 6boost seems the best and looks awesome, i just got one today, lol

OR do what im doing and go TS manifold and TS gt3076...

Edited April 5, 2013 by AngryRBGTX

[MrRx7s3]

Sorry whats TS? whats a good boost controller that you guys would recommend?

Also abit off topic, My brake pedal goes down quite abit, at idle when pumping the brake it comes to like the hard stop point then if I push a little more I can hear a click kind of noise coming from the brakes, someone has suggested to me that I should do a brake calliper rebuild, if this is correct where is the best place to get a kit from, thanks.

Edited April 5, 2013 by MrRx7s3

[AngryRB]

I use an AVCR , its very useful for bring on boost early and adjusting for each gear but others may suggest better ones ...

TS is twin scroll, not really needed its just better if you have extra $$$, it brings boost on earlier due to separating the exhaust gases from the manifold and merging them at a split where they hit the turbine with more energy producing better spool but at the cost of some top end..

[mzol89]

+1 for the npc organic...

[89CAL]

NPC flywheel if you have the money as well. I have one, and its a great product

$460 from memory. About 3-4kg lighter than standard, feels a bit nicer with it

[MrRx7s3]

Hey guys, new update, clutch is nearly completely gone, slips like shiat now, I just cant figure out, is the R34 a pull or push type clutch? and also with the nismo lightened flywheel would I be able to use a xtreme clutch or nismo only? if nismo only, I would probably go for the xtreme lightened flywheel but which 1? they have 3 stages, light, extra light and ultra light? I don't want too loose too much torque although I would like for it to be a little more responsive, thanks.

[MrRx7s3]

Also, I'm still stuck whether I should go cushion button or just button, thanks.

[copycutter]

IIRC cushioned button is more street oriented, and button is more track oriented. The cushioned button has a slightly more gradual takeup and is more user friendly for day to day driving.