Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys this build is starting to drive me crazy, im finding so many different opinions on what should be done to build a decent rb30det, i have just aquired a low k rb 30, now my plans at this stage are to fit it with acl race bearings and a decent set of rings but retain the factory na bottom end, i am a qualified mechanic so that is no issue building that... i have a 25det head which i am in the process of getting its cleaned up and freshened (recut valves, new stem seals weld vct feed etc) what i would like clarification on is what i can expect out of this setup with say a gt35r, nistune ecu, injectors to suit, decent cooler, crank collar with 25det pump and what ever else i have forgotten, bare in mind i am only a mechanic so my budget is by no means huge haha. id be absolutely stoked with a reliable 250+rwkw, and inputs would be greatly appreciated cheers guys

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423229-stock-bottom-end-rb30det/
Share on other sites

Just above your post

Here is the thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/

here is the pdf in that thread:http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf

here is the RB30 turbo upgrade thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/104332-rb30-hybrid-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

im a bit of a forum newb how do i locate said threads?? cheers

to be honest i wouldnt even bother doing rings and bearings if the rb30 you have is a good condition running engine.

for example.. my rb26/30 is stock as a rock only things i have done is oil restrictors, shimmed up oil pump and rb25 sump. MLS headgasket and ARP studs hold it all together.

i make 395 rwkw and the car is a drift car and has been going for ages like that. running e85 and 35R turbo.

  • Like 1

holy crap, well i guess that could be money better spent on other things cheers guys, what advantage does a rb25 sump give u as i have one spare, shimmed up your rb25 or 30 oil pump?? what oil restrictors would u recommend, im planning on running external vct feed, thanks heaps guys!!

25 sump has two windage walls on the back of the sump. needs to be ground to clear the crank. other then that its the same.

block off the front feed and put a 1.5mm restrictor in the rear. run the VCT feed as per the guide but make sure that it also has restrictor.

i just shimmed the 30E pump

yeah just the rear part... its pretty strasight forward when you go to fit the sump to the block and turn the crank over.. it fouls

i run a P1000 haltech

haltech would be awesome to run!!!i just pulled the head off my 135,000 k bottem end and its as clean as a whistle, but i did find oil in the intake pipe so might have a bit of blow by so it may require a reco, what kind of revs does urs pull mate??

yeh i dont wanna rev mine too hard as it will still get street driven, and i wanna keep it reliable so id like about 300rwkw at the most, but it seems im gunna have to freshen this bottem end up unfortunately..... can u boys recommend a decent computer to run that doesnt require an afm and wont cost me a gazillion bucks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...