Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So on the weekend I put different front coilovers in my gtst and now the steering wheel is shaking like crazy at about 120. I don't know if maybe a wheel weight has come off and its just a coincidence that it did it after i swapped struts. Besides an inbalance or a bent rim what could cause this? Could it have anything at all to do with the different coilovers?

Cheers!

Damper adjustable? What settings are you using? Try upping the hardness if it's at full soft.

Wheel shake could also be bad tyres (I had that issue a while ago). Also have a look at your steering rack mounts and bushes.

Yeah damper adjustable and I've got them reasonably firm at the moment. But my front tyres are really bald on the inner edges. Getting a balance today to see if it improves anything. Cheers. Wheel alignment shouldn't really cause shaking though I don't think.

Yeah damper adjustable and I've got them reasonably firm at the moment. But my front tyres are really bald on the inner edges. Getting a balance today to see if it improves anything. Cheers. Wheel alignment shouldn't really cause shaking though I don't think.

mine would shake on the freeway around 110...turns out it was toeing out, on one side more than the other...not sure why, just wear and tear on bushes I suspect.. Probably caused by 200,000kms of my aggressive turning to the left or something I dunno..lol

...once aligned it was fine, even with the crappy tyres..

If you have issues best thing is usually take it to a alignment shop..I mean we can all sit here and play guessing games or you can just go spend 50$ and find out the problem and hopefully have it rectified,,,

Iv'e had this same issue with the same car since I bought the car.

I've changed radius rod bushes. Got new tyres. Balanced them. Twice. Dad 3x Front and Back Wheel alignments. Still have the problem.

I'm thinking its the aluminium spacers on the wheels. They just fit looselely over the studs and move around until you bolt the wheel in place. Obviously causing balance issues.

I need to find a way to stick spacers perfectly to the back of the wheel instead of the hubs.

OR better, does anyone know of any spacers that fit Perfectly centre on the stock GTS-t hubs?

Iv'e had this same issue with the same car since I bought the car.

I've changed radius rod bushes. Got new tyres. Balanced them. Twice. Dad 3x Front and Back Wheel alignments. Still have the problem.

I'm thinking its the aluminium spacers on the wheels. They just fit looselely over the studs and move around until you bolt the wheel in place. Obviously causing balance issues.

I need to find a way to stick spacers perfectly to the back of the wheel instead of the hubs.

OR better, does anyone know of any spacers that fit Perfectly centre on the stock GTS-t hubs?

isnt this why you buy hub centric spacers :blink:

isnt this why you buy hub centric spacers :blink:

Yea I guess so but I've only recently turned my attention to this and I'm new to it all. I took it to a wheel shop about the problem. Got them to fit another set of my own supplied control arms and hubs and they said they'll fit hubcentreic spacers on it but when I got the car home it was just loose aluminium plates with universal holes to fit the studs on them.

I only need about 10mm extra clearance on top of stock hubs so the rim spokes dont hit the brakes.

http://www.isc-performance.com/oilcoolers.html

These look huge.

Got a balance and all good ! Thanks for the help lads

Got to hear. Damn your luck :)

Edited by sonicz

Should have taken it back to them and ask wtf is this slip on crap.

GKTech have wheels spacers as well ;)

Man I don't mind slip on if its hub centric and properly symmetrical. My impression was this is what they will fit.

Thanks for pointing me to Gktech!

I found these

http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4-5x114-3-10mm-hub-centric-slip-on-spacers.html

That's all I friggin need :D Don't need the ones with the studs.

Ordering on Monday. Though I don't know what exactly "on back order" means in terms of how long till I get them

Maybe I should just go for the 15mm ones in stock and hope I don't need to flare the guards. I'll have a wider track. :cheers:

Edited by sonicz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
×
×
  • Create New...