Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have checked a lot of the previous threads regards remote oil coolers but I can't seem to find anyone speaking of specific brands. I have an R33 GTR which I take onto the track when I can, and oil temp is the main bugbear. I am looking to fit a remote oil cooler, but am just wondering if I can get some feedback as to which ones are the best. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42418-which-brand-of-oil-cooler/
Share on other sites

OK.... oil cooler... hmmmm.... first look at Earls .... on http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/oil_cool.htm

This will give you enough of information as they use air plan material....

Second look for Trust or HKS or ARC,,, One of the best brand you can use.

Anyway i am selling my trust oil cooler.... its only 10 row.. which is a small one but then again, it all depent on ur application of how u use ur car..... if u dont race 8 to 10 lap continue non stop then the 10 row should be fine else u need to get a bigger one... but then again it also depent on how hard u push ur engine.

Note the bigger ur oil cooler the more oil u require as u service ur car... 10 row is about 1L...

Serck, Earls, Setrab, Perma-Cool, Oxford coolers are all good brands, proven in NASCAR, WRC, F1 etc. Don't get ripped paying ridiculous $$$ for Jap brand name coolers. Be sure to fit a mechanical thermostat, or your oil will take ages to get up to temp, doing more damage than good.

Braided lines are a waste of $$ and illegal (if not ADR'ed).

The sandwich plate you can get from Lynx for AUD$59. Ford & Chrysler use the same 1/4"x 16 thread as RB's. It can be tapped to accept gauge sensors for next-to-nothing.

All up about $400-500 for all new parts.

Ummmkay ?

i used an oil cooler from a 5 series BMW, around the same size as an rx7 cooler.. only cost me $50 but the support equiptment cost around $500 - lines, connections, remote oil filter, inline thermostat, sandwich plate..

pics of cooler

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=13692

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=13691

could do it cheaper without using same lines amd remote kits..

also depends on where you mount them on how well they work etc

  • 2 weeks later...
...Braided lines are a waste of $$ and illegal (if not ADR'ed).  

Hadnt heard that before, ive heard that about brake lines, but never just general lines for coolant, fuel or oil.

Im not running a thermostat, looking at australian climates i cant see it being a biggie, just extra expense of the thermostat and extra fitting required to plumb it up.

Id say go as big as you can fit in the drivers guard, and try and avoid mounting behind the intercooler but before the radiator... you can get a 19 row Serck cooler for around $250-$300.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...