Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Correct. They slip together and have two bolts holding them.

Its a recognised method of attaching legs and perfectly fine to do but a fully welded joint is best.

The way AGI do theirs is a better design with the 44mm tube and 38mm tube slid inside it. The fence post clamp together joins are rubbish.

So what's your equivalent product then?

I was considering that cage with the two diagonals (assuming it adds head protection for both occupants in a roll). Then welding in some base plates to bolt too. That's 880 delivered and painted.

What would your cage, painted and freighted cost and what work would I have to do when it gets here.

I wouldn't put both diagonals in the hoop.

One in the hoop and one in the rear legs with a harness bar in the main hoop as well.

Main hoop

Two rear legs

Harness bar

Hoop diagonal

Rear leg diagonal

12.9 high tensile bolts

Plates to be welded to body.

TIG welded (ER70s-2 filler rod)

German CDS material.

Ill do that cage for $770 plus the deliver cost which would probably be $140-$150.

When you get it you'll need to remove the seats and centre console

Remove the seat belts and rear trim etc.

Weld in the base plates for the main hoop

Drill holes for the rear leg plates

Bolt the cage to the base plates and then reinstall the seats, harness and trim etc.

OK cool, thanks for your help so far.

So to confirm, that cage comes as one piece fully welded and the only bolts are the ones used to fix it to the welded plates the car (are the plates meant to be welded for the backstays as well?).

Also, do you do/know what the best option is for lowering the seat.

My helmet sits too close to the roof at the moment.

I can see ways to get it lower but wondered if you offered something off the shelf.

Also, I assume it's most beneficial to TIG weld the plates in or is MIG sufficient for that weld?


Edited by ActionDan

Further to my questions above, another member has contacted me explaining that he'd like a cage too so with that in mind, is there the possibility of a discount on the cage or freight if we order 2? Would they both fit on one pallet etc?

He's currently waiting for pics from Roy, but if you have any now is a good time to throw some up.

No off the shelf solutions for seats I'm afraid.

Mig welding plates to the floor is the only way. TIG welding to a floor pan is very difficult and ugly.

I'm sure two cages could go on one pallet yes.

I don't actually have photos of troys cage. I do that many I don't normally take photos anymore.

I think there may be some in his build thread though.

Does this look like it?

gallery_20349_4009_25906.jpg

I demand $50 from anyone that posts pics of my car :)

Brad must have taken that pic as it doesnt look like one of mine.

It is SCHMICK! I am not saying that because its my car. I am not saying that because Risking is on the forum. I had the BD cage and was happy with it generally for the 2 or so years I had it. It isnt a question of better or worse etc. I got what I asked for from BD. If I had of articulated my requirements better I would have paid more and probably got what I was after but was mostly scared of rendering the back seat completely useless for storage of tyres and bags on a trip to the track

When I knew what I really wanted Brad was able to give it to me. I can still fit two 17" rims in the back seat. two in the passenger seat and fuel in the boot. When a recliner seat is in it goes a fair way back for some zzzzz when I am doing the Melb-Syd drive at night. Its all I could ask for since my thing is only a club car and needs to be driven on a daily basis

What do people think of something like this harness wise?



http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index.php?PCID=10413&PSO=245&PSID=9193133&PSV=Primary&CDO=



I thought at least 5pt for the anti submarine belt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...