Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As mention in topic, my car feels slightly more responsive and smoother after,

1) oil change (same brand, Royal Purple HPS, but the workshop used 5W30 instead of the usual 10W40) Not sure if the ones I have been using is HPS or not.

2) spark plug change from platinum to iridium (Denso)

3) oil filter and fuel filter change

4) clutch bleeding (not asked for but they did it cause they suspect my clutch is worn but its not)

Does any of the above affect the response and smooth-ness of the engine much? I told him 5W30 should be fine since its winter but next time I would like to have 10W40 again. Having said that he assured me a good engine can run 5W30 without issues at all unless its blowing smoke.

Advise pleaseeeee. Thank you.

Variables:-

What was the condition of your old plugs Brandon?

Did you blow through the old fuel filter to see if the residual fuel was discoloured?

Incremental change of old oil to new (and thinner), can result in a noticeable +ve smoothness.

Did the clutch bleed result in extra bite on take-off?

  • Like 1

you bet, by the time you change your oil most the additives would have gone off bla bla same with coolant, brake fluid and filters, the more you look after your car the better it will run and the longer it will last!

I didn't not get the chance to see the plugs and filter unfortunately.

Dont get me wrong, the car has never given me any issues other than the usual failure due to age/wear. The 2 thing I suspect is the thinner oil and possibly plugs.

The plugs looks clean from previous service but its been awhile since I change them. However, the gap may be too big? I think it's 1mm. Maybe iridium gives a better spark over platinum?

The clutch is still easy to drive being a coppermix. They just bleed it cause they thought the free play was too much. However, it does feel firmer and slightly stiffer.

All in all I'm happy that the car is running smoother. Not saying it's bad before but if the oil is the key, are there any potential issue which can be fatal to the car by sticking with the thinner oil? Or should I go back to 10w40 for my next service since it'll be summer?

No probs with the current oil with your Kms.

I'd just ask a friend to drive your car whilst you follow it; and you check the smoke coming out of the exhaust. See if there's any more than before.

No probs with the current oil with your Kms.

I'd just ask a friend to drive your car whilst you follow it; and you check the smoke coming out of the exhaust. See if there's any more than before.

Right. Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it this weekend. But driving around yesterday doesn't seem like there is. It'll have smoke in the first gear for once (like cleaning the exhaust carbon) if I floor it but everything else seemed pretty normal.

No idea on what sort of mods/engine you have, but flooring it and black smoke = running rich (standard computer does that).

5W-30 seems a bit thin, but once again no idea on what sort of engine you have. I would stick to #W-40 or #W-50.

Just an unopen N1 engine.

Like I said before, I'll make sure its 10W40 for the next service. This time should be ok since its winter and I doubt it'll be much of an issue especially the N1 oil cooler is quite big. Even during summer it rarely goes over 75-80degrees on the gauge. Most times it doesnt even move over the 70

No idea on what sort of mods/engine you have, but flooring it and black smoke = running rich (standard computer does that).

5W-30 seems a bit thin, but once again no idea on what sort of engine you have. I would stick to #W-40 or #W-50.

after spark plug change my car started VERY well and idled + drove smoother as well. after a fuel filter change, it felt like it was a little smoother while idling too.

but, always keep in mind the placebo effect!

after spark plug change my car started VERY well and idled + drove smoother as well. after a fuel filter change, it felt like it was a little smoother while idling too.

but, always keep in mind the placebo effect!

no shit about the placebo effect! I would seriously doubt a fuel filter change would make any difference at idle, when the fuel requirements are at their lowest.....

Not sure but for RB26, you'd do the pulley/idler/tensioner whatever you call them when you change the water pump. Just to save the time and effort.

I'm about to change my water pump on my stagea for the first time do I need to remove the crank pulley to accomplish that or am I able to avoid it?

5W-30 should be fine. It's more when under load that the thinner oil would start to no protect as much as a thicker oil. Nissan oil is 7.5W-30 for 200SX anyway.

32 gtr's are the same. Factory they run 7.5-30. A car with a new rb would be fine. An old engine with 100000 will have bigger clearances thus requiring a thinker oil.

Reply to this as well ^^^^^^^

Just an unopen N1 engine.

Like I said before, I'll make sure its 10W40 for the next service. This time should be ok since its winter and I doubt it'll be much of an issue especially the N1 oil cooler is quite big. Even during summer it rarely goes over 75-80degrees on the gauge. Most times it doesnt even move over the 70

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...