Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As mention in topic, my car feels slightly more responsive and smoother after,

1) oil change (same brand, Royal Purple HPS, but the workshop used 5W30 instead of the usual 10W40) Not sure if the ones I have been using is HPS or not.

2) spark plug change from platinum to iridium (Denso)

3) oil filter and fuel filter change

4) clutch bleeding (not asked for but they did it cause they suspect my clutch is worn but its not)

Does any of the above affect the response and smooth-ness of the engine much? I told him 5W30 should be fine since its winter but next time I would like to have 10W40 again. Having said that he assured me a good engine can run 5W30 without issues at all unless its blowing smoke.

Advise pleaseeeee. Thank you.

Variables:-

What was the condition of your old plugs Brandon?

Did you blow through the old fuel filter to see if the residual fuel was discoloured?

Incremental change of old oil to new (and thinner), can result in a noticeable +ve smoothness.

Did the clutch bleed result in extra bite on take-off?

  • Like 1

you bet, by the time you change your oil most the additives would have gone off bla bla same with coolant, brake fluid and filters, the more you look after your car the better it will run and the longer it will last!

I didn't not get the chance to see the plugs and filter unfortunately.

Dont get me wrong, the car has never given me any issues other than the usual failure due to age/wear. The 2 thing I suspect is the thinner oil and possibly plugs.

The plugs looks clean from previous service but its been awhile since I change them. However, the gap may be too big? I think it's 1mm. Maybe iridium gives a better spark over platinum?

The clutch is still easy to drive being a coppermix. They just bleed it cause they thought the free play was too much. However, it does feel firmer and slightly stiffer.

All in all I'm happy that the car is running smoother. Not saying it's bad before but if the oil is the key, are there any potential issue which can be fatal to the car by sticking with the thinner oil? Or should I go back to 10w40 for my next service since it'll be summer?

No probs with the current oil with your Kms.

I'd just ask a friend to drive your car whilst you follow it; and you check the smoke coming out of the exhaust. See if there's any more than before.

No probs with the current oil with your Kms.

I'd just ask a friend to drive your car whilst you follow it; and you check the smoke coming out of the exhaust. See if there's any more than before.

Right. Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it this weekend. But driving around yesterday doesn't seem like there is. It'll have smoke in the first gear for once (like cleaning the exhaust carbon) if I floor it but everything else seemed pretty normal.

No idea on what sort of mods/engine you have, but flooring it and black smoke = running rich (standard computer does that).

5W-30 seems a bit thin, but once again no idea on what sort of engine you have. I would stick to #W-40 or #W-50.

Just an unopen N1 engine.

Like I said before, I'll make sure its 10W40 for the next service. This time should be ok since its winter and I doubt it'll be much of an issue especially the N1 oil cooler is quite big. Even during summer it rarely goes over 75-80degrees on the gauge. Most times it doesnt even move over the 70

No idea on what sort of mods/engine you have, but flooring it and black smoke = running rich (standard computer does that).

5W-30 seems a bit thin, but once again no idea on what sort of engine you have. I would stick to #W-40 or #W-50.

after spark plug change my car started VERY well and idled + drove smoother as well. after a fuel filter change, it felt like it was a little smoother while idling too.

but, always keep in mind the placebo effect!

after spark plug change my car started VERY well and idled + drove smoother as well. after a fuel filter change, it felt like it was a little smoother while idling too.

but, always keep in mind the placebo effect!

no shit about the placebo effect! I would seriously doubt a fuel filter change would make any difference at idle, when the fuel requirements are at their lowest.....

Not sure but for RB26, you'd do the pulley/idler/tensioner whatever you call them when you change the water pump. Just to save the time and effort.

I'm about to change my water pump on my stagea for the first time do I need to remove the crank pulley to accomplish that or am I able to avoid it?

5W-30 should be fine. It's more when under load that the thinner oil would start to no protect as much as a thicker oil. Nissan oil is 7.5W-30 for 200SX anyway.

32 gtr's are the same. Factory they run 7.5-30. A car with a new rb would be fine. An old engine with 100000 will have bigger clearances thus requiring a thinker oil.

Reply to this as well ^^^^^^^

Just an unopen N1 engine.

Like I said before, I'll make sure its 10W40 for the next service. This time should be ok since its winter and I doubt it'll be much of an issue especially the N1 oil cooler is quite big. Even during summer it rarely goes over 75-80degrees on the gauge. Most times it doesnt even move over the 70

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
    • Yeah Jap import. Fairlady Z then! I'm a bit the same.  They've been on my radar for a fair while but then just impulsively decided to buy one!  Was going to just buy an NA and add turbos to it later but decided to save the f'ing around and just buy the turbo version. 
    • Thanks mate, well done to you too! Yeah not looking forward to doing any major work to it!
×
×
  • Create New...